Happy New Year all,

      Has anyone changed the damper plate on their Chris? I am a new member to the club and have a 1984 CC 350 Catalina DC. I have the salon with the bar galley to rear port side. It is in the port drive line I believe my problem lies. From all I have read and inquired about the damper plate sounds like the culprit, the problem is I am getting a HUGE time estimate from the marina for changing that out. If anyone has any information on the subject I would be glad to hear any or all  Thank You much and I look forward to hearing from you all and getting to know the club in the future.

 Best to all

  Mark

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What is it doing that indicates the damper plate?  I have had one with broken springs but it was original and there seemed to be indications of probable cause.

Tim

Tim it is a rattle of sorts is my explanation of it it was low for a time then as it was the last trip out in Oct became very profound everything I have read or inquired points to the damper plate I am assuming it is original . The problem is replacing it the machanic is saying the tranny can only move 3-4 inches back not giving adaquit room to remove the plate. But the motor would have to move forward to give additional space at the tune of 10-12 hrs then replace plate and return operation. For a total in the 20 hr range.Does this sound rigHt? If it is the opinion ok. But it seems way off to me. Any idea or thoughts

The reason I asked is if the rattle is idle up to perhaps 1000 rpm you will have gear lash sounds that resemble scary noises.  This sound is usually indicative of a need to tune the engines and adjust the carb.

I am not familiar with the spacing in your boat but it would seem to me the removal would be to remove the shaft coupling, clamp the shaft so it doesn't slide beyond easy retrieval.  At that point I would think you could remove the transmission or the tail piece then proceed to bigger bits.  If this is a vee-drive then never mind.

Good luck, and hope someone with more experience chimes in.

Does not seem out of line to me.

No Tim it's no a V drive trans. Thank you for you input. David the 20 hours time frame seems about right? I have never pulled the tranny off the motor/bell housing before so I really do not know what all is involved thank you also for you input on this any other thoughts or suggestions are much appreciated. Mark

It has been a while since I worked on a 35DC. It is tight in there.   The engine will need to be picked up. The oil and atf drained, the exhaust hoses removed which can be a PITA. Most likely the fuel and intake hoses need to come off, the harness may need to be disconnected. The carpet will be picked up and put back. If it is FWC the exchanger may need to be removed. etc....... Then realigned on reinstallation.

One thing to check is to make sure the engine is running smooth with no miss. If the engine is running rough it will make all kinds of noise at low speed. Check this first!!

Take a real good look at the ignition and fuel first!!!...just saying..I had a noise clunk in the transmission in my hacker up to 1100 rpms(around that range). tore it apart and put a new dampener in it..because an expert told me it was bad..it wasn't. sold the boat before I could fix it.  Picked up my commander the same bug started up after a long trip..after talking to another old timer he told me I't was an ignition problem..didn't fully believe him but..I started there.. new points cap rotor..no fix off for plugs wires..and beer..no fix..7 hrs into project out of ideas and beer..checked compression timing etc....now all day is killed getting ready to go after the dampener..when a friend stopped by..old time mechanic (with beer)..told him my problem what I had done..3 minutes latter it was idling great..he adjusted the carb...and if you heard this motor before I started you would swear it was going to through the transmission through the bottom of the boat... and btw..they were both 350q's

Yeah I did mine but pulled the motor to do it. If you crack the engine and tranny apart on a Q motor oil will be every where. The description of not having much room is correct. That area has crankcase oil in it. My trans has rattled around for three decades at low RPMs and still runs fine. Have been from norfolk to manisquan. 

Dave,

Sounds like you've been there done that. I'm about to pull the trans off my 350Q (leaving motor in place), because I'm convinced the trans is shot. Any tips you can offer? The trans shop has said to leave the trans parts all connected rather than taking off the rear coupling, gear box, and front housing separately.  At a minimum it sounds like I should pump all the trans fluid and motor oil out first. Any idea how much the whole trans unit weighs?

Jim

Jim, thats going to be tough doing that in place place  a block under oil pan because the rear motor mounts are on the tranny. Is this in a single 27 footer? Is  there a reduction gear? Tranny without reduction should be 80 to 100lbs. put pan under seam to catch oil. most bolts are 12 point heads and may be corroded. While you have this apart you might want to check your packing gland. It will be sooooo much easier to do with tranny out of way. Dave

Dave,

Yes, it's a 27 single engine. I assume there is a reduction gear of 1.5 since that's what the build sheet says, but I don't know how to tell if that's in there or not. The boat was repowered to 350Q around 1991. My plan is to get a hoist onto the trans, lift just enough to take up the slack, remove the rear mount bolts, then lift a bit more until the engine/trans are nearly horizontal, then put blocks under the engine and start unbolting the trans. 

Sounds like a plan. Did you say they were velvet drives? Most Chris's have paragons. Did u start yet?

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