With so much going on I just couldn't find the time to haul my boat till this weekend. So out she came on Thursday. She became mine only 12 months ago so other than the survey this is my first haul-out. Initial inspection showed minimal sanding needed on the hull, some barnacles on the props and shafts. I took this opportunity to remove an abandoned pump that was used for a bait-well. Here she is coming out of the water.
Checklist completed so far includes.
Prior to this weekend I made the decision to swap back to the 19x17 that the previous owner took off to "try something different". So many people say their boat is under-propped. I took my mechanic out and we used an electronic timing gun and verified WOT was no problem and then some. and figuring I have them and the prop shop said they were in very good shape for used props. So back on they are and I'm crossing my fingers they will give me the 200rpm reduction I am looking for. Last week while planning this change I documented my speed and RPM from 600 - 4400... even with the barnacles and growth on the bottom I was able get to 4400 rpm.
Shafts and props painted with Pettit Antifouling paint and Shaft Zincs Installed
I've check all through hulls and replaced the transom zinc too.
Noteworthy other items completed prior to haul-out, alternators checked (one rebuilt) belts checked one replaced, 2 new engine batteries installed and new shut-off installed, new fuel lines and shut offs from tank to carbs, carbs pulled and rebuilt, teak trim stripped cleaned and oiled, oils and coolant topped checked and topped (changed last August) . I have one more day so if anyone has suggestions or input it is welcomed.
Q motors have hydraulic valve tappets, no adjustment is necessary.
True but, there is an initial set when you build the engine. I was thinking after 100 hours maybe they should be checked.
Tom, Thanks for letting me know. did you change anything on your drive end after rebuild? props or gears? My engines have about 250 hrs on them. I'm wondering if the previous owner notice this and took off the 19x17 4 blade for the 17x17 3 blade to make the problem go away. I've decided to leave the set up as it is, run them for the rest of the season. I need to start enjoying the boat. trying to get everything perfect has consumed much of my season and I've not been out on it enough. For now this chapter is closed, thanks to all that have given feedback. Stay tuned for a sequel when I haul her for another week in the fall!
Russ, did not change drives or props. Props are original factory spec 3 blade. She tops out on GPS @ 32mph
Tom i may have solved the mystery, and the other so helpful ones. I believe its the GAUGE. The problem was the rpm gauges wouldn't match up. So I figured the engine was under-powered. The first leg of the trip was a 19 KT crossing a straight, it was calm and almost no wind. While under way at 3000 rpm I noticed the boat was tracking to the left (port side). And as noted before the Starboard engine needed more throttle to get to 3000 rpm than the port. and the starboard engine was consuming a LOT more fuel than the port. and the starboard was running hotter. So rather than fighting the steering I throttle back the starboard about 250 rpm. the boat tracked straight and the fuel consumption matched on my flow meters. After a week of running and about 25 engine hrs and a combined distance of approx 130 Kts. My flow meters were only off by 2 gallons. More important... the engine temps were almost always the same... Side note. my average consumption was 1.17 gallons per Nautical Mile and an average of 5.6 gallons per hour. About half my running was at 2900 rpm at 12-13kts occasional push to 16 but lots of rolling along at 7kts. Also I towed my 12 ft skiff everywhere and my inflatable tender and small outboard on the transom.
Can I get the best suggestion to test the gauges. I don't have a digital timing gun... is there an alternative?
Yup, that happened to a buddy's boat many years ago. It only took me 2 years to figure why one engine would not run with the other. In this case both tachs were lying, but in opposite directions. I just switched the tach leads from one engine to the other and it was obvious what was happening. For your boat it would take a couple of pieces of #16 wire about 4 feet long to switch from one engine to the other and vice versa. The manual for your 350K show the tach leads as the gray wire on coil negative.
Thanks, going to have to try the switch and see.