So here's the other leak we discovered upon launch. The port rudder post area was leaking. I didn't see it, but the yard tells me the water seemed to be coming in thru a crack in the wooden backer. It is sort of spongy in spots so I'm looking at disassembly and fashioning a new wood backer. 

I've searched the SuperDisk but again, any fresh insight into the tear-down, how best to fashion the new block and reassembly is more than welcome! Thanks as always!

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Greg - it’s all super simple. Everything comes apart and goes back together pretty easily. I did mine the year before last and did what CC did - used a block of mahogany.

One tip - when you go to put the rudder back in, have a car jack handy. Getting the rudder post started is easy, but getting it all the way up into the port takes a little extra muscle. Thanks to Dick, having a car jack in hand really helped get it up those last few inches. Plus - takes a little heat off your helpers arms as those suckers are heavy!

Thanks Matt! I don't have it apart yet. It appears the block of wood will need to be slightly wedge shaped.

Was making yours a pretty straightforward process, where it tapers from say 1" thick down to 5/8" thick or whatever? Or did you have to shape any sort of curve into the bottom of it, so it would follow the contour of the hull?

Matt Cowles said:

Greg - it’s all super simple. Everything comes apart and goes back together pretty easily. I did mine the year before last and did what CC did - used a block of mahogany.

One tip - when you go to put the rudder back in, have a car jack handy. Getting the rudder post started is easy, but getting it all the way up into the port takes a little extra muscle. Thanks to Dick, having a car jack in hand really helped get it up those last few inches. Plus - takes a little heat off your helpers arms as those suckers are heavy!
Greg - I can’t be 100% sure, but think I remember being concerned about the same thing. If I recall correctly, any perceived cut angle to be made is due to swelling of the old wood, and in the end, the piece you use is square. Any angle of the hull is taken care of by the angle of the rudder port itself. Definitely no shaping or carving required. In fact, I’m remembering this to be the case more as I type this. Cut a board, drill the holes, soak in resin, and away you go.

Thanks Matt, I've got the area cleaned up and I'll need a wedge shaped block. The photo below shows what I'm working with. (It also shows the cracks radiating out from the bolt holes. No wonder it leaked!) The block is indeed square at 4.5" X 4.5". But the inboard side is 1.5" thick, tapering to 1" thick on the outboard side.

I forgot to look this aft... Do the 4 bolts go thru the hull and mount to a bronze plate or something on the boat's underside? There's so many years of bottom paint on the boat that I never noticed...

Yes. There should be a bronze plate on the bottom. Before you start cutting things using those dimensions, get it all taken apart and see what you’re working with. Mine looked similar, but everything was quite straight once put together wth a new block. Good possibility the 31 is different back there than the 35, though.

DSC03859.JPG  hull view of my 35

Tim

Greg I belive chris craft used a few different styles of rudder ports.

On my 35 I have the same style as you that requires a wedge shaped block. 

On Matt's 35 his rudder port is cast at an angle and therefore uses a flat block.

Im going to replace both of the blocks on mine . They are just a straight foward wedge shape with no curvature on the bottom

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Thanks Jeremy, that's exactly what mine looks like. Dismantling this weekend (fingers crossed).

Jeremy Goldstein said:

Greg I belive chris craft used a few different styles of rudder ports.

On my 35 I have the same style as you that requires a wedge shaped block. 

On Matt's 35 his rudder port is cast at an angle and therefore uses a flat block.

Im going to replace both of the blocks on mine . They are just a straight foward wedge shape with no curvature on the bottom

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