Boats been running fine. Haven’t ran it since June 30th though. Went to start it today and it took a while. Got it cranked and it ran for a bit and then died. Had to manually choke it to start again.

ar idle, it would slow dow to about 500rpms a FB then bounce back up. If I gave it a bit of throttle there was a hesitation. I also got a few backfires.

im thinking there may be moisture in the distributor cap since we had quite a bit of rain in the last few weeks?

other than that, and the fuel filter perhaps having some trash in the line, what else should I check?

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I guess I don’t have a bent shaft.

at this point I’m blaming the pertronix module. Maybe the moisture got to it and ruined it?? 

I don’t know what it was... all I know is that $112 pertronix module fixed it.

i still have some kind of noise on start up, along the lines of a loose belt but it’s not the belt. I’ll post a video of it. It’s no longer the clanging noise.

I did notice that the ebay pertronix module was a few letters of the alphabet back in the mfg code from this new Napa one, so maybe I just had some old stock, which is why it was so cheap on eBay??


Matt Cowles said:

Ok - I’ll bite again...if you have a bent distributor shaft, how did a new cap and rotor possibly make it “running smoothly now?”

Here is the noise. Any ideas? It's not the belt, and it only does it when its cold. After it runs a while I can crank it and there is no noise.

It’s hard to tell from that video, my first thought is the bendix is hanging on the starter

Is that the little gear that moves back and forth to connect with the flywheel?

Yes

Christopher Hebert said:

Is that the little gear that moves back and forth to connect with the flywheel?

Your bent distributor shaft was more likely a distributor cap that was not setting flat in position.

If the cap also not setting correctly, moisture can get in much easier.

That is a bad cap. If it was running good before then don't mess with the timing you will just chase your tail. Moisture, even in small amounts will short the leads inside the cap. The power comes from the coil and via the rotor gets distributed to spark plug leads. Moisture under the cap provides a pathway for the power to go directly from the center lead from the coil to spark plug lead thus causing the back fire. The caps on the F engine look like crab caps on steroids. When I change the crab caps on my boat I take the old on home, clean the leads with a dremel tool and wash it with soap and water wipe it dry and save it for next time. I have been doing this for 10+ years with excellent results. I was just throwing them away but with the cost started cleaning them. I have been rotating the same caps for the last 10+ years. They stay trouble free for at least as long as a brand new one. I usually change them 2 times a year. Dave

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