My original equipment Prestolite Alternator has finally quit after 44 years of service on my 31' Commander with the 350Q engines.
The Chris Craft part numbers are CC 16.65.00026 for the complete unit or without fan ,pulley, etc 16.65.00027
The Original Prestolite number on the unit is ALE 6207-Y-12B
So far i have not been able to find any cross references to replacement units. Also i am finding the available number of re-builders doing this kind of work are going the way of the dinosaurs. There may be one guy i contacted that possibly could rebuild if he can find the parts..........but if this is not possible, i am sort of out of ideas.
Anyone been in this position and if so what did you end up doing?
After this weekend I found that neither of my alternators was working. One had been replaced with what looks like one of DB Electrics Prestolite replacement models, which from what I understand is a 64 amp alternator, that one was fried. I had them test my original pretolite and regulator that was on the other engine and surprisingly they both worked. So I must have a wiring issue somewhere for that alternator. I went to Bill's Suburban in Roseville MI where they tested my alternators and regulator. They had a 94 amp prestolite replacement that is externally identical to the DB replacement that was fried, so I bought it and had them order another, should be here in 2 days. They're $135ea Model# 8903N-94A. Going to put the right one in now since it's the hardest of the two. Even though I'd had the one off before, I though it was a standard SI-10 replacement but it's not. The mounts are different.
The alternator fits just fine. However I then proceded to burn a hole in the screen with the output wire that I thought was dead since I'd turned the batteries off. Apparently the alternator output doesn't go through the selector switch :/ I should have known better and checked it first, or at least disconnected the cables from the battery. Luckily I was able to put the screen from my old alternator on the new one. I do now need to figure out where the output wire goes so I can remove it from the system since I'll be increasing the wire size (cable really in this output range) and at least for now wiring directly to the battery for that engine.
Finished installing the left alternator today. Brackets match up perfectly. On the wiring side is where I had some work to do. The new alternators on top of being higher output are also internally regulated 1 wire design. So I removed the original wiring harness for the alternators along with all the associated wiring for the regulators. The original output wire is 8ga and connects at one end of the shunt on the rear of the motors. There is also a ground wire that is in that harness connected to the ground stud on that side of the engine. I removed those, then decided to cut out the ground wire from the harness and reattach them to the ground stud, can't have too many grounds was my theory. I figured it was easier to cut the tap off the wires with the harness on deck. I connected the ground and output cables to the alternator before mounting it since the hook ups are on the engine side. I used 6ga cable for my output which I routed forward along the front bulkhead to the battery as this looked to be the shortest run. I didn't measure, but looks like I used 6ft on the left side, the right will be considerably shorter. Hooked up the battery, fired it up and the alternator gave me 14.7 volts from idle up. Now just need the second one to come in so I can complete the project.
Also you will need a 5/16ths coarse thread bolt 3/4in would work for the adjustment bracket. The original alternator had a 3/8ths bolt and nut.
That's great news! Was was thinking about changing out my original starboard alternator in the next year or so since the port has a newer replacement. Have one larger alternator would be great for charging up that engines battery and the house bank.
UPDATE: As referenced previously, i purchased a 55 amp alternator. I connected the original Battery connection to the proper terminal on the alternator, then made the ignition switched connection from the positive side of the coil to the connection on the alternator as shown with the instructions that came with the alternator.
Fired it up and checked the voltage. Providing over 14 volts and my volt meter guage is registering much higher voltage than it ever has.
Back in business.
I replace mine with single wire exciters. The only problem I had was the hole for the pivot bolt was bigger and required a bushing. Dave B
THe alternator that i bought from Arco came with the bushing in the box with the alternator. WIthout that, yeah, would have been one more issue to resolve.