I understand it might be possible to replace the rear seal on my Paragon P34 in the boat? I have a1970 sport cruiser 35.  Is this true? How would that be done?

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I was able to replace the rear seal on a Paragon HF-7 in the boat (31 Commander). The biggest problem was having room to swing a hammer to drive the new seal The seal is quite large in diameter so can be difficult to tap in flat.

Be sure to cover the output shaft end with something to protect it from being tapped.....Can easily ding it.

Pay attention to the old seal orientation. I put my new seal in backwards....ended up leaking so I pulled the transmission out and had it done right. I would seriously consider pulling it and having it gone through. Live happily ever after.

John

I have changed a few of these, but always on the bench. Hanging upside down or crouched in tight quarters is just an invitation to a sloppy or screwed up job. A few of those repairs I just removed the reduction gear which is nowhere near as involved as removing the whole transmission. I'm assuming you have Q engines in that boat and I just can't visualize clearances, etc. Why don't you post a few pictures of your transmission & engine, taken from the top and side. Make sure to show the coupling, shaft, and stuffing box. Then we can hazard a pretty good opinion if there is enough room to remove just the reduction gear for a bench seal replacement.

Thanks Dick,

Going to the boat today. Will take pics as suggested.

Robin

Is the trans mounted to the stringers on the Q or are all the mounts on the engine like on the F? 

Here's a couple of photos

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Yes. Mounted to stringers. Rear mount,

front mounts on engine

Mike H said:

Is the trans mounted to the stringers on the Q or are all the mounts on the engine like on the F? 

I can't imagine you would have enough room to slide the shaft back and do any work. I'm with Dick that I'd pull it probably have it gone through and make sure it was done right on the bench.

The problem at this point is getting the four bolts on the coupler/flange to break loose with out  rounding off the heads. PB blaster had been liberally applied.

I 'm not sure if your boat is in the water or not. If not I would loosen the shaft set screws and slide the shaft and prop back freeing it from the coupler/trans-then either try and deal with coupler via heat(to the coupler body) /impact wrench OR then remove the transmission/coupler and deal with the coupler and transmission on the bench. If in the water you could try the heat/impact wrench approach---if not you may not have enough shaft length left from your pics to slide the shaft back enough to free it from coupler/trans and still keep water from flooding in.

Boats on the hard. I've been considering doing that. If I could get the shaft out of the coupler i could then unhook rear mounts and lift to clear the shaft and remove the reduction housing to work on the bench. Any chance I could shorten the prop shaft stuffing box flexible hose a couple of inches to allow sliding the stuffing box farther down the shaft so sliding the shaft back won't cause the woodruff key to damage the packing.

Robin,

You already know the engine is going to have to be lifted clear of the shaft coupling to get the reduction gear off. Your main problem is the lousy design job of the drive line by Chris Craft. I almost cried when looking at your pictures :-) There is no excuse for a stuffing box to be that damn close to the coupling. Fortunately, it does not look like a Bubba has further exacerbated the problem created by damn poor engineering and Florida salt & sun corrosion. I don't think even when you get the coupling bolts out you will be able to slide the shaft & coupling back far enough to disengage from the 1/8" deep pilot counterbore in the transmission flange. As long as you're on the hard, why don't you tighten the stuffing box cap so it goes a little further aft to give you a little more clearance for the transmission to clear the pulled back shaft & coupling as you carefully lift the back of the engine? BTW, your hose section of the stuffing box looks to be the right length, but I would shorten it at least 3/4" for a little more clearance. BTW, your box should have a big cotter key keeping the cap from rotating loose, but what the hell --- It's so damn close to the coupling it couldn't go anywhere ! Once you're out, repack the box. This one takes 4 rings of 1/4" thick packing. I'm also attaching a couple of pictures --- One is a couple of these boxes I modified & rebuilt for a friend. You can clearly see the packing rings (I think yours has one too many just by looking at the cap position. Also Attached is a picture of my shaft puller. Too bad we live so far apart (I'm Chicago area), but perhaps you can rent what the rental places call a slide hammer. Getting the shaft out would be a big help. This is serious surgery, so if I can be of further help, save an old man's arthritic fingers from more keyboard pounding. Call me at 847-341-1149. 

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Mostly I agree with Dick, almost always, but sometimes I hedge a bet.  When the slide hammer has not succeeded after perspiration gives way to exhaustion, heating the coupler didn't improve the language, get longer bolts for the coupling, make sure they are grade 8 and equal the length of the other bolts plus at least half the coupler..  Remove the bolts from the coupling slide of the coupler back it off and insert a spacer, I used a socket that was able to fit in the opening, insert the longer bolts and begin tightening in the opposing bolt pattern rotation, i.e. 1,3,2,4, and press the shaft out of the coupler.  If you don't have space, it looks like you won't, at least you will be able to break the shaft loose from the coupler and the oil on the shaft will have moved into the coupler, you did use penetrating lube on the shaft? .  This should loosen the shaft from the coupling so the slide hammer will be effective.  BTW that big long wrench that fits the prop nut that hits the ground about the time you think the nut will break loose will keep the shaft from turning when you are trying to extract the coupling bolts.

best of luck with this problem, Tim

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