I understand it might be possible to replace the rear seal on my Paragon P34 in the boat? I have a1970 sport cruiser 35. Is this true? How would that be done?
Thanks for the info guys. It's truly appreciated.
Dick, there is a big cotter pin on the stuffing box. It's on the bottom out of camera view.
As stated above, getting the coupler bolts out without rounding off the bolt heads (Everything rusted together and no room to work (( the pics are after being cleaned up)) )
The other option is trying to get the shaft to back out far enough to allow tipping up the back of the engine/trans to clear the shaft ( again will be facing rust but have the advantage of applying the force on the out side with a slide hammer).
Also, I'll be looking for a replacement coupler and trans flange at some point if anyone has those. I believe it's a 1 1/2" shaft.
Thanks again. The CCCC rocks
Mostly I agree with Dick, almost always, but sometimes I hedge a bet. When the slide hammer has not succeeded after perspiration gives way to exhaustion, heating the coupler didn't improve the language, get longer bolts for the coupling, make sure they are grade 8 and equal the length of the other bolts plus at least half the coupler.. Remove the bolts from the coupling slide of the coupler back it off and insert a spacer, I used a socket that was able to fit in the opening, insert the longer bolts and begin tightening in the opposing bolt pattern rotation, i.e. 1,3,2,4, and press the shaft out of the coupler. If you don't have space, it looks like you won't, at least you will be able to break the shaft loose from the coupler and the oil on the shaft will have moved into the coupler, you did use penetrating lube on the shaft? . This should loosen the shaft from the coupling so the slide hammer will be effective. BTW that big long wrench that fits the prop nut that hits the ground about the time you think the nut will break loose will keep the shaft from turning when you are trying to extract the coupling bolts.
best of luck with this problem, Tim