31 Commander Sedan prop shaft

On my 1967 31 Commander the rubber hose attaching the packing gland to the hull thru hole went over the fiberglass hole in the hull and over the outside of the packing gland. I recall it was maybe 8" long rubber hose. Double clamp it on each end.There was enough room to put in packing with the shaft in place.

When I replaced the hose I did do it on dry land. Loosen up the hub attaching the shaft to the rear of the tgransmission. Probably need to remove the propeller with a prop puller. Then push the prop shaft away from the transmission. Loosen up the set screw ( or screws) from the hub half on the shaft to remove the hub. May need to pull the hub with a couple nut and bolts and a spacer on the end of the shaft. Bolt the two half couplings together like it was on the transmission, but with a small diameter spacer on the shaft so tightening the bolts tend to pull off the coupling from the prop. Others may have a better way. I would avoid any heavy pounding with a hammer.

A prop puller will be needed. I made one, but no longer have access to a machine shop.

When I replaced all the many layers of packing with new, I had many fewer layers so the packing gland grew shorter overall which gave more room inside the boat to work on the transmission or packing.

I previously posted this picture you can see the oacking gland is bottomed out. I don't think I will gain any space.

From what I see it looks like the set up on my 31.

John

Those adapters are still available Thru Buck Algonquin to reduce the ID of a hose .

My preference whenever possible is to use a stuffing box that has the same diameter as the boats shaft log as there's less chance for a leak.

Like John said you'll need to remove your prop with a prop puller and then to get the shaft out of the coupler use a prop shaft puller .

You can get both of them along with all the parts you need from Minderman Marine/ Gabel welding

They manufacture the pullers In house

https://www.gabelwelding.com/

If you need to replace your cutlass bearing, they make a puller for that too.

Is there a reason why this method won't work instead of a puller? If the shaft comes out of the coupler and the coupler is removed why does the prop have to come off? My cutless bearings are in great shape. This doesn't leak or drip just out of adjustment. Who sells packing fittings for 1-1/4" shaft and larger ID rubber ?

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=_qBaSVx7tcg

Yes you should be able to use that method to take the shaft out of the coupler, I've done it on a much newer boat. You will have to find just the right spacer, to place between the prop shaft and the transmission output shaft, like a socket. I bought longer bolts, that gave me some room to hold a spacer inbetween the flanges. Make sure you grease the threads of your bolts well. I stacked washers under the heads, to get just the right length of thread, you want as much thread engagement as possible. Tighten each bolt a little at a time to press the shaft out. Also, I'd clean out the threads in the transmission coupler well, you do not want to strip or gall the internal threads in that transmission coupler.

Loosen the set screws with square heads, after cutting the safety wire off. Mark the coupling halves, so you put them together the same.

The prop comes off because the prop hits the rudder if you slide it back. I guess you could remove the rudder instead. If you do all this, replace that rubber log hose for sure. No bilge pump will keep up with a split shaft log hose.

I don't have that style packing box. If you take the two bolts out, how much room do you need to slide the inner half forward and get inside the outer half with a pick to take out the old packing? I thought they were built with enough room for picking out the old, and re-packing?

My 350Qs were mounted about a foot further forward than on older 31's, my pictures would not be helpful.

It's certainly doable to press your shaft out like that albeit your shaft doesn't have a nut within the coupler.

However,

Without removing the prop and prop shaft there's no way you'll be able to have your prop shop fit and reface the coupler (and or replace the coupler) with the shaft.

This is also the most appropriate time to have the shaft and prop tuned and dialed into spec.

This should be done about every 5 years and since you're servicing or replacing your stuffing box its a good time to do this.

I just did stuffing boxes, packing, and log hoses on a 31. Props didnt have to come off. Once coupler was pressed off, I loosened the packing glands, slid shafts back to where the props were just before rudders and removed the inside parts for replacement. Buck algonquin hoses, double clamps and new packing. Hope this helps. Lee

Lee can you tell me what size hose and packing you used? I go on the hard in 3 weeks and it would be nice to have material here when I do

Lee was there a nut on the end of the shaft at the coupler or is it single taper.... did you use a socket to press off the coupler... did you have more room than my photo?

The yard where I am getting bottom paint quoted me $1000 to $1200 to repack. Just does not seem that difficult. At $35 a day on the hard I guess I have time to learn.

John, no nut on shaft. Just tapered with a keyway. Mark the shaft with a sharpie where it meets the coupler before you disassemble. This will help you not over or undershoot with re installation. (Set screws need to be in dimples!) I have to pull records on sizes and I think I have the hoses in stock (I double ordered by mistake) If they are right you can have at my cost. Ill get back to you shortly.

Here is what I got (and have) Also this vendor was awesome to deal with. I was working in Boston and they overnighted to the yard. Hope this helps.

I was able to slide my prop back this much against the rudder, note the darker color on the shaft where it used to be inside the strut.

On the last years of the 31' they moved the engines forward and used bronze shaft logs. Plenty of room for servicing the stuffing box, I'm not sure which setup Lee worked on.

Wow thats a huge gap. My boat is a sedan hull #1 out of the Tennessee plant. They were still working out the interiors and weight balance. Very little room forward of the Q engine also.