427 resistor… specs, replacement?

Are you running an electronic ignition, Petronix? I have switch to the flamethrower coil which has an internal resistor and removed mine without issue.

Yes electronic ignition… but resistors are still there?

Chris, the instructions from pertronix are sketchy but in one place it says do not remove the resistor, in another place it says will accoet up to 12+ vdc.

The answer to your questions tho:

Yes you can test. Disconnect all wires both sides and ohm post to post. If its not open its good. (Its a resistor)

New ones? Yes! Any napa, amazon or autoparts store will have one if its bad. If you need a link met me know. They might have to call it in to the store but theres no specific “specification” just tell them “Ballast resistor for points system “

Lee

@Lee Dahlen - If you have a link, that'd be great (thanks in advance!)

My electrical gremlin is a challenge for me, but I'm hoping this is the root of it (this is a continuation of a post I had on the old site that has been lost - Maybe worth adding it back in again).

I'll try testing with the multimeter this weekend, but in the mean time, I think it's a good idea to have a replacement on hand. C.

Hi Chris,

Is this the discussion from old site??

Hi Char... yup, that's the one!

Ok… an update. First, Lee thanks for the part number. My local Advanced auto parts on the way home from work had one in stock, so I was able to pick it up for this weekend. I just installed. However…. No dice.

I’m getting the same sort of reaction…. Was able to start it as I normally would. 8 pumps, turn it over for a few, 8 more pumps and she fires off. Run it for a bit. Seems ok, but reving seems a slight bit sluggish. Shut it down, try turning it over and no dice. Normally this is not an issue… it should, because it’s warm, fire right off. But as I’m turning it over it hesitates every so often, and will not start again. When it hesitates, my battery charger says there’s a low state (indicator light). Attached is a video of the hesitation.

Ok. You have one of two issues going in.

1. Timing is two far advanced. Check to be sure the flywieghts under the pertronix are retracting. You may have a broken spring. Simple test. Move the rotor to advance and let go it should spring back.

2. 2. You have fluid in a cylinder. (Gas,coolant,seawater) Pull the flame arrestor next time you shut down. Should be no drips. If there is you are flooding the engine and “hydrolocking” a cylinder. Reach out by phone if I can help you further.

Hi Lee, thanks. Also check the Word doc with the previous post and info that Char added to this thread on the problem from last year (when it started and what I was experiencing). There’s a bit more info there that could maybe help.

I’ll pop the cap off and have a look at the spring - not sure I’m 100% sure of what your talking about, but I’m sure it’ll make more sense if I’m looking at it ;).

What do you have for Chokes on the carburetor? 16 pumps to start seams a lot. There was write up here or elsewhere about the electronic choke. I have the AFB and pump twice and fires right off. Took some adjusting with carb, choke and timing to get to that point. If I pump any more I have issues. First start after long setting I will turn the motor over before touching throttles just to get the fuel pump running the pump twice and start.

Is your oil milky or spell like fuel, thin?

Could be quite a rabbit hole you could be going down.

Chris,

Call or text. I dont have ur info

704-287-3914. I can walk you thru

No milky oil… all good there. No fuel smell. I have a visitor coming in a bit, I’ll give you a jingle just after. Thank you Lee.

Chris, here is a link to the thread about hard starting. FYI

http://www.ford-mel-engine.com/old_forum/www.network54.com/Forum/424840/thread/1201633113/Hard+Starting+427/index.html

This is just helpful info from the web.

Chris,

Something else I ran across today. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=O3RR4FIx728

Hi Jason, Lee...

First, thanks for the comments (and the help). After reading here, talking the mechanic at our marina, and a call with Lee... it seems something in my distributor is the culprit. I am going out to the boat on Thursday night and Friday will be dedicated to the engine. I have a timing gun out there, and between that and some inspection, I'll be able to get to the bottom of my issue, and back out on the water.

I'll keep everyone updated here because hopefully it'll help someone in the future, it's what this club is all about.

Stay tuned!

C.

Ok… back on this subject after a while (if someone tells you that you should try pneumonia out for a spin… take a hard pass).

Ok… let’s add a little more info to the original article that Char was kind enough to add, and to this post.

• starting cold, engine turns over fine, and while not as easy to start as my port engine… it does… no hesitation just turns over and will start.

• Pulled off the cap, rotor, and plate and checked the flyweights… turning the rotor I can see the flyweights both move out, and repressing the rotor they both return as expected.

• Changed my Mallory Unilite ignitions from one engine to the other.. issue persists with the starboard engine. Diagnosis would tell me the electronic ignition is fine.

• Starting the engine and letting it run for about 10 or 15 mins… during that time I let it idle, then recede to 1500rpm. Reduced to idle, put it in gear, reved to 1000rpm. No issues. I did not go longer but in other instances the longer it runs in idle or near idle the more likely it is to die when I put it in gear or apply throttle.

• After the 10-15 mins of the above, I turned off the engine, tried to restart and was not able to get it to fire. While trying to start the warm engine it’s labored. (Adding a video)… this is not the case cold as mentioned above.

  
  

Ok… so, the diagnosis continues… any ideas with the added info?

C.

1967 42 Commander “What If…”

I've had coils fail (open) after a period of operation then work after cooling. Easy to swap and check.

Hi there Tim… swapped coil with another that I had… no change.

Ok... I'm back with a post on this, and I'm happy to report... SUCCESS!

So, a recap for those of you following or perhaps someone in the future looking at this for the first time. First some baseline info:

Normally, my engines (both) sit for a week while we are gone. Upon starting, my procedure is 8 pumps of the throttle, key the ignition for about 5 seconds, then key off, pump the throttle 4 more times, throttle a about half, and turn the key again until they roar to life (usually around 2-4 seconds). For some more background, both engines rebuilt (one less than 100 hrs ago, and one less than about 50 hrs ago). My carburetor on the starboard side is an Edelbrock with electric chock (port will be changed out soon). Batteries on both sides have been replaced within the last year and a half. No other material changes to the engines or connected items for a number of years. Last season about midway through, things changed on my starboard engine:

SYMPTOMS:

• From a cold start - harder to start. Instead of 8 pumps, 4 pumps... it was 8 pumps, 4 pumps, maybe a few more... then start.

• Once started and running at about 1000 rpm for a few minutes as we prepped to leave, I'd knock it down to idle. No issues, but as time passed at idle it seemed to labor/hesitate a bit.

• After running for a bit (10-15 mins), putting it in gear or applying throttle would kill the engine.

• When the engine was warm, starting the engine was next to impossible. While cranking, the engine labored/hesitated as in the video above.

INITIAL THOUGHTS/DIAGNOSIS:

• Seemed like an electrical issue - changed batteries, checked grounds, tested the alternator output... all checked out.

• Was told by a fellow dock mate that maybe it was a sensor that was bad... LOL... No sir... not in 1967, LOL.

• Timing... checked the timing. It was set to 10 degrees (I was educated that it should be 8 degrees, so a small change), but 2 degrees wouldn't be a big issue.

  
  

• Moving on to more fun items... checked the flyweight movement on the distributor... they moved out, and back in as expected, no broken springs.

• Also swapped out my Mallory electronic ignition modules from port to starboard... issue did not follow, so the electronic ignition was good.

• There was also some input to check the gear on the bottom of the distributor, and that there could also be a secondary issue of a failing starter (labored starting).

ACTUAL PROBLEM & SOLUTION:

• After all of the diagnosis from above, there was now thought that the carburetor was the culprit, and something called "dripping secondaries" (For more info you can look for an artcile by Dick Morland in our archives - just search "dripping secondaries". I'll do my best to explain... Essentially, due to the angle of the engine, and some issues within the carburetor itself, the fuel leaks down to the last two cylinders of the engine as it's running. The engine can't burn it all, and over a period of time at a lower rpm, it sort of hydro locks those two cylinders, and they choak out. Trying to restart when warm, now causes the labored/hesitating start, but if the engine sits for the week (or overnight), the fuel evaporates to a degree (more the longer it sits), and thus the engine is able to start again.

• As I have the second carb awaiting installation on the port engine, It was a simple procedure to swap carbs - two wires,4 nuts, and the fuel line... about 15 minutes of my time. The first thing I noticed was that my gasket between the plate and the carb was "blown out" between 2 of the 4 barrels. Not sure how, or when this happened, but ok..I put a new gasket, and the second carb on... 8 pumps, 4 pumps, boom... off and running.

• I let the engine run for about 10-15 minutes... no change in performance (albeit a bit rich on the fuel - an adjustment I'll need to make. Keyed off the engine, then turned the key - no throttle...fired right off. Already an improvement without actually taking the boat out.

• We took the boat out twice after that... once for about a 15 - 20 minute shakedown, and another for about an hour and fifteen mintues. Both cruises were uneventful... the boat ran good, and no issues with lower RPM (do need to make some adjustments on the carb as mentioned above), and after getting into the slip, I keyed off the starboard, and fired it right back up... no issues.

• Now that I know, the carb will need to be tended to. Not something I'm sure I want to tackle myself, but it'll be the next step. The carbs came used to me from a fellow club member, but this one was fine for a small amount of hours over perhaps 5 or six years (remember that I am in the process of rehabbing our 42, so going out on the boat has been on the backburner), So once the offending carb is refurbed, I'll swap it out and have the other one gone through as well (or both over the winter). Come spring, we should be good to go on both carbs.

SPECIAL THANKS:

Without naming names, I'd like to thank a number of people that provided input, and direction in getting the diagnosis of this crazy problem. You don't know what you don't know, and I'm not an engine guy - but I'm learning. I appreciate the members of the this club, and others around me in our boating community in providing valuable information... as some of you know, finding people that know the "old stuff" is becoming more challenging. Thanks to all for the help, and hopefully this post (and Mr. Morland's article) will be helpful to others in the future.

Cheers!

C.

1967 42 Commander

"What If..."