Hi All, I was wondering if anyone had to prove their CCC was built in the USA and if so how did they get it? I have been asked to prove it to the Documentation Office.
Here is a couple of fun pic’s of her. We recently moved her, “Grace”, from Dubuque, Iowa, to Aventura, Florida. She sat in fresh water her whole life. Actually she sat in storage most of her life. I know, how could we have moved her to Salt Water….. I immediately installed fresh water flushes on both mains and gen. They all get flushed at the end of every day of use.
Like a CCC was built anywhere else other than the US :). .
1968 38CCC.
My Hull number is:
FDA38-4040R
Any advice????
Thank You
Wes
949 300-888 cell/text
You can order a Hull Card from Mariner's Museum that would show when and where built.
You can get the hull card (build sheet) for your boat.
http://www.marinersmuseum.org/library/#chris-craft
Chris-Craft Archives(757) 591-7785chriscraft@MarinersMuseum.org
There are lots of references to the final r designating the Roamer plant as the build location. Find and print "deciphering the model number " .
As Tim mentioned the final "R" in you hull number means the boat was built at the Roamer plant, which was located in Holland, MI. I would start with printing out the "deciphering the model number" as Tim suggested in the interim but also ordering the hull card as Char suggests, it generally takes a couple of weeks to get. It's fun getting the build sheet to see where the boat was originally sold and with what options and it's also a nice way to support the Mariner's Museum.
Wow, that’s exactly like my boat, a ‘67 38 Sedan. Do all your salon windows slide freely? Mine don’t. And my shore power connections are on the transom.
One of the forward side windows opens freely but the others do not. Just have not attacked them yet. The aft sliders now work perfectly as someone had installed some shims that were a tad too tall below the bottom track. All better now.
Also, the boat had been stored on the hard and just a little bow down so the cockpit had water sitting forward. It had rotted the bottom 6 inches of wood both port and starboard of the sliding doors. Had it scarfed out and replaced the bottom sections with pvc (so they could be painted) . When the boat was rewired, they put two shore power inlets on starboard so we had speakers installed there and to port. Know the original power inlet was on one side or the other.
The original window tracks have quite a bit of space for vertical movement. This allows me to lift the window, hose the tracks, use craft stores over size pipe cleaners to clean the tracks under the window as it is pushed up. It seems that once done maintenance seldom requires repetition until the following spring. You may also want to consider the drain modifications I made to the hatch drains.
Where can I find “deciphering the model number”? I have been trying to locate that section and can not find it.
Wes, On the navigation bar - Click Resources then click Files then Select the topic Hull Numbers. You can download the articles and save and print them.
https://www.commanderclub.com/files