One winter project I would like to check off is rebedding the rub rail. There are several stripped screws and some gaps between the rub rail and gunnel. On previous temporary repairs, I had to use an angle grinder to get the butt joints to match up properly - like the boat shrunk or whatever bedding was under the rub rail disappeared.
Dose anyone know if CC used anything like butyl rubber tape under the rub rail? It is the solid stainless steel rub rail on a 69 35SC.
Hey Thomas, I think they just used a bedding caulk. It off pretty cleen when you scrape it. As to it not fitting back I get it. I think I took the transom rail off when I had it painted and of course the butt joint was off. Seems to be always the case with boats and I went through it with my SS resto. There was no gel coat left so it had to be done.
Hi Mike,
The paint was a good match for the gel coat, do you remember what you used? I think I'll try to fill the stripped holes with bits of fiberglass cloth & epoxy then drill them out again.
Thanks,
Tom
Regarding the fit of rubrail banding butt joints;
Next time you find a joint that seemingly has more stainless banding than there is room for , remove a bunch of fasteners ( like several feet worth) starting at that joint. Next , causing a convex bulge in the section of rail that the screws were just removed from , you'll now be able to get the two ends to meet and install a screw closest to the joint.
Once you've got that screw installed, you'll be able to push the convex bubbled rail section to lay nice and tight to the boat.
As far as bedding the stainless banding , you certainly could use bedding compound under it but personally I'd just be sure to bed each fastener to prevent leaks.
I personally like to not bed the stainless banding itself to allow water to drain thru it instead of get trapped under it.
I do not, The yard sprayed it. If I was to do it today I would roll and tip. As to color I think I sprayed the front hatchwith Ford Wimbledon White in a rattle can. If you take off the CC emblem on the salon side you'll see how much the color has changed over the years. At least it was very noticable.
Do you think 4200 is good to seal the screws with? The screws next to the butt joints are the ones that stripped. I was thinking of tapping the new holes after repairing them and using machine screws for a better bite (next to the butt joints anyway).
4200 will work but my preference is bedding compound as its not an adhiesive yet will do a fantastic job of keeping water out.
It's also simple to take it apart should you need to
https://defender.com/en_us/pettit-dolfinite-bedding-compound?utm_id=143783458262&utm_campaign=19735474067&utm_source=google&utm_medium=paid&utm_content=649599978904&gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI1f6X_cCxiQMV_DIIBR2ySgYuEAQYASABEgIHL_D_BwE#76=907
Nothing wrong with threading the hole and using machine screws.
If you clean out the holes then fill them with west system epoxy thickened with #406 https://www.westsystem.com/products/406-colloidal-silica/
you'll have no problems threading the hole as 406 works great for this purpose.
Thanks Jeremy, will pick some up.