I go on the hard in 3 weeks and I want to pull my swim deck, replace the backing for the brackets and refinish it. I am in Washington State in. Covered slip. Lots of rain but less UV whats my best product for refinishing?
I always recommend just a good cleaning, bleaching, and a quality teak oil. In the past I have always used Tip Top Teak products. (2 part cleaner and bleaching, and then their oil) Everyone I know that varnishes or uses products like Cetol, Semco, etc end up HATING it because it cannot be layered over when sun spots, water intrusion, or bubbles occur and stripping it back off is a "Have to totally strip all of it" before they can work on it, and they end up going back to basics. Just my opinion. Hope it helps.
My teak platform was original from 1976. A lot wear/deteriation, holes and damage from hitting things. I flipped it over, cleaned, sanded, repaired, filled holes with teak bungs and installed a new rub rail prior to coating it with Starbrite Teak Sealer. Looks great. Have to admit that multiple coats of varnish look better but I don't have the desire or time to maintain that process. Besides, varnish is far to slippery with bare feet.
I also use the starbrite product. I think there are two or three different colors. Personal prefference. I get an entire season out of it and my platform is uncovered.
I've done all kinds of finishes on my customer's swim platforms over the years. There's several choices out there .
Nothing beats the rich look of varnished teak!
If you choose to varnish be sure to get a nice healthy buildup as it'll have better uv tolerance. (Yes it still matters even in a covered slip)
Gloss varnish Inherently has more uv inhibitors than satin/ rubbed effect so even if you go with a satin finish (which is stunning) be sure to do the bulk of your build coats with gloss.
Traditional spar varnish is more common and less expensive but is also more susceptible to wear and weather. There's some more modern finishes like Awlwood, Awlbright, and others that are designed to withstand comertial traffic, abrasion, and tropical uv
Conditions.
A simple cover can also be made to prolong the finish from the elements and protect it from bug and bird dropongs (even when kept in a covered slip)
I've done many platforms in Sikkens which is known for very respectable durability.
I recommend using sikkens natural as its arguably their best looking color . The original or light tend to have in my opinion, too much of an orange hue.
Most people that complain of poor longevity with Sikkens almost always don't apply enough coats . Even the can only tells you to apply 3 coats but from 30+ years of doing this work , I can tell you it'll take a minimum of 6+ coats for a good base that has a fighting chance against years of UV light . I've got platforms out there in sikkens that were applied decades ago that haven't needed to be striped when they are properly maintained
The boat In the above photos (sorry not a commander) had both its entire deck and swim platform done in sikkens.
It was applied in 2009 when we built it and has been recoated a few times since but no need to strip off the finish .
Nothing at all wrong with traditional teak oil either.
The pros are that it's super easy to apply , no masking required as excess can be wiped off, has classic good looks and is naturally non slip.
The cons of oil is that it tends to attract dirt and dust, will need to be reapplied a couple times a season , & has no abrasion resistance . After a while oiled teak will darken substantially both due to uv absorption as well as accumulated dirt and will need to be bleached ,scrubed and reapplied.
Teak can also be left all natural.
You can choose to let it gray or with periodical bleaching and scrubbing it will have a beautiful natural golden color.
I always recommend just a good cleaning, bleaching, and a quality teak oil. In the past I have always used Tip Top Teak products. (2 part cleaner and bleaching, and then their oil) Everyone I know that varnishes or uses products like Cetol, Semco, etc end up HATING it because it cannot be layered over when sun spots, water intrusion, or bubbles occur and stripping it back off is a "Have to totally strip all of it" before they can work on it, and they end up going back to basics. Just my opinion. Hope it helps.
My teak platform was original from 1976. A lot wear/deteriation, holes and damage from hitting things. I flipped it over, cleaned, sanded, repaired, filled holes with teak bungs and installed a new rub rail prior to coating it with Starbrite Teak Sealer. Looks great. Have to admit that multiple coats of varnish look better but I don't have the desire or time to maintain that process. Besides, varnish is far to slippery with bare feet.
I also use the starbrite product. I think there are two or three different colors. Personal prefference. I get an entire season out of it and my platform is uncovered.
I've done all kinds of finishes on my customer's swim platforms over the years. There's several choices out there .
Nothing beats the rich look of varnished teak!
If you choose to varnish be sure to get a nice healthy buildup as it'll have better uv tolerance. (Yes it still matters even in a covered slip)
Gloss varnish Inherently has more uv inhibitors than satin/ rubbed effect so even if you go with a satin finish (which is stunning) be sure to do the bulk of your build coats with gloss.
Traditional spar varnish is more common and less expensive but is also more susceptible to wear and weather. There's some more modern finishes like Awlwood, Awlbright, and others that are designed to withstand comertial traffic, abrasion, and tropical uv
Conditions.
A simple cover can also be made to prolong the finish from the elements and protect it from bug and bird dropongs (even when kept in a covered slip)
I've done many platforms in Sikkens which is known for very respectable durability.
I recommend using sikkens natural as its arguably their best looking color . The original or light tend to have in my opinion, too much of an orange hue.
Most people that complain of poor longevity with Sikkens almost always don't apply enough coats . Even the can only tells you to apply 3 coats but from 30+ years of doing this work , I can tell you it'll take a minimum of 6+ coats for a good base that has a fighting chance against years of UV light . I've got platforms out there in sikkens that were applied decades ago that haven't needed to be striped when they are properly maintained
The boat In the above photos (sorry not a commander) had both its entire deck and swim platform done in sikkens.
It was applied in 2009 when we built it and has been recoated a few times since but no need to strip off the finish .
Nothing at all wrong with traditional teak oil either.
The pros are that it's super easy to apply , no masking required as excess can be wiped off, has classic good looks and is naturally non slip.
The cons of oil is that it tends to attract dirt and dust, will need to be reapplied a couple times a season , & has no abrasion resistance . After a while oiled teak will darken substantially both due to uv absorption as well as accumulated dirt and will need to be bleached ,scrubed and reapplied.
Teak can also be left all natural.
You can choose to let it gray or with periodical bleaching and scrubbing it will have a beautiful natural golden color.
Hope this helps you decide!