Hello all I have crank but no spark on my port engine. 

Both sides of the coil are hot put in a new coil and both sides are still hot. 

Any thoughts or suggestions would be much appreciated. 

Thanks in advance,

Wally

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If you have 12v on both sides of the coil, that means that the coil is not grounded or else an incorrect connection.

https://itstillruns.com/troubleshoot-mallory-unilite-distributor-sp...

Hello All, I ordered a new module and hope to install it on Sunday. 

Ron according the the above referenced article I should have 12 v on both sides of the coil. 

I performed the blocking procedure referenced by Tim Miller per the Mallory web video and I have no voltage drop which according to Mallory indicates aa open sensor replacement recommended  

My next question pertains to the ballast resistor. I believe the new coil has an internal resistor. 

Mallory says the sensors are prone to premature failure if no resistor is present. I do not see an external resistor connected. Will the new sensor be ok with an internal resistor coil?

Thanks for all,of the input tips and suggestions. 

Sterling when would be a good time tomorrow for a quick chat?

https://documents.holley.com/mallory_instructions_unilite_distribut...

Wally 

Wally,

The article that you have a link for has several technical inaccuracies and is not a very good reference.

Tim's is the one to use.

I still think you need to verify that you actually have continuity from ground to the ground wire and inside of the plug.

The Mallory module is nothing more than a solid state version of a point system (switch). You will only see 12V on both sides of the coil if the module is not conducting any electricity.

If you have current flowing through the coil, there will be a voltage drop across the coil. The module will not function if it is not connected to ground. It will also not function if it is blown.

In your case, it could be either scenario but by the looks of your engine, I still would want to verify that you actually do have continuity to ground.

It is also possible that if you get an extreme amount of crud over the LED lenses that enough light can be absorbed by the crud to not allow the module to trigger.

Ordering a new module was prudent but I suspect that there is a good chance that it will not be the fix.

I'm about 90% sure those engines were made with a external ballast resistor and a non resistor coil . I know the 78 thru 80 models were that way .

Yes internal resistor in coil will be fine. 

Also use an ohm meter to check the rotor. for both an open or short. Sometimes they will burn a hole thru and short out the fire to the shaft.  Longshot but still worth testing. 

You said you swapped a known good pickup to the other side and the problem still existed. So the new pickup won't fix it. Did you swap the coils? (I may have missed it but figured I'd ask.) 

Hi Lee, new coil. But was added after the initial module swap. I swapped the rotor/shutter wheel from the non starting port engine to the perfectly running strb engine and it functioned just fine. I just finished installing the new module. It passed the Mallory voltage drop testing procedure where in the voltage should drop below 2v with the module eye blocked where as the old one didn’t. Starting attempt coming shortly

I again just want to give this club a HUGE shoutout! Thanks to everyone for chiming in. 

Fingers crossed lol,

Wally

And the port side engine roars to life! 

Thank you to everyone!

Wally

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