Hello All, First time Winterizing these engines. Anything to look out for?

i am removing the plugs and draining the blocks and manifolds. 

Thanks in advance,

Wally

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Before you open anything, are these engines running raw water or coolant through the blocks?  If coolant, you would be draining it into your bilge and that would be much trouble.  My '74 350s run coolant.

There are much more talented people here who can give you the finer points of winterizing, I'll be taking notes for next year.  The one I just bought has been winterized for the past decade.

They are raw water cooled. 

I just finished drawing the Strb engine I found a pet cock

on each side of the engine and at the back end bottom of each manifold. 

I let the drain till they stopped running I poured antifreeze down the thermostat housing until it was running out the pet cocks. I closed the pet cocks and now my question is do I just fill it up with antifreeze until it is full in the T stat housing? 

Thanks, Wally 

Don't forget the transmission coolers, the intakes and the mufflers.

Got the paragon oil cooled. 

Tim Do you mean the raw water intakes?

And thank you I absolutely forgot about the mufflers 

how do I go about Winterizing them?

thanks. 

Wally

Yes, the raw water intakes.  I drain the engines of raw water, then use a 5 gallon bucket for the antifreeze, use an extension on the intake hose to the bucket, then run the engine until I see the antifreeze coming out of the exhaust.  I usually only get 4 gallons into the bucket so add the 5th as soon as possible then watch the exhaust for pink.  I have in the past killed the engines at that point by spraying the fogging oil into the carb.

This is how I do my engines too. I drain the water out if the block first though. I know alot of people do the drain procedure, I just feel running antifreeze through the engine on it’s own power is the best way to make sure it goes through all the pumps, coolers, etc. 

Timothy "Tim" Miller said:

Yes, the raw water intakes.  I drain the engines of raw water, then use a 5 gallon bucket for the antifreeze, use an extension on the intake hose to the bucket, then run the engine until I see the antifreeze coming out of the exhaust.  I usually only get 4 gallons into the bucket so add the 5th as soon as possible then watch the exhaust for pink.  I have in the past killed the engines at that point by spraying the fogging oil into the carb.

I agree with Tim and Mike. I have "wet stored" Wanderer for the past 4 off-seasons and winterized the engines by closing the sea cocks, then opening a diverter valve that allows me to run antifreeze through the engine until pink comes out the exhaust. Never had a problem. 

After draining everything, remove the top front thermostat housing and fill with antifreeze. Also, pull the 1/4 inch threaded plug on the bottom of your trans coolers. Don't ask me how I know......

No warranty involved but you might save the mufflers by using a shop-vac in the exhaust then running a hose into the muffler and forcing in anti-freeze.

I too like to run antifreeze thru a running engine however  I always use the blue stuff. Typically the blue is for engines  as it often contains rust and corrosion inhibitors and the pink(commonly called red pop) is for waste and water systems.

https://www.westmarine.com/WestAdvisor/Selecting-Antifreeze

Thank you all! I Used the blue 100 below for the engines and tranny oil coolers. 
I used the red pop for the freshwater and AC. 
I used my transfer pump to pump 1 gal  of 100 below each up the exhaust pipes into the mufflers. 
I feel confident. 

Now the planning and purchasing begins for the springtime projects. 
First up recommendations for the soft fly bridge floor. More specifically I was looking for input on what to use for new core besides plywood or balsa. 
Thanks in advance,

Wally

Several good coreing options. 

If your looking for light weight concider using Carbon core plastic honeycomb but you'll need to use a solid core like coosa board wherever you plan to mount your hardware.

http://www.carbon-core.com/product/plastic-honeycomb-box/

http://www.coosacomposites.com/products/2014-05-09-02-43-07/bluewat...

Big Wally said:

Thank you all! I Used the blue 100 below for the engines and tranny oil coolers. 
I used the red pop for the freshwater and AC. 
I used my transfer pump to pump 1 gal  of 100 below each up the exhaust pipes into the mufflers. 
I feel confident. 

Now the planning and purchasing begins for the springtime projects. 
First up recommendations for the soft fly bridge floor. More specifically I was looking for input on what to use for new core besides plywood or balsa. 
Thanks in advance,

Wally

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