Hey group,

I have a freshwater 1984 410 Commander.

We found that our blackwater hold tank is leaking.

Horrible find just before the 4th...

Anyway, we are not removing and replacing the aluminum tank at bottom.  We cleaned it all out and are putting a tank on starboard side.

I am putting a 45 gallon one in and we had just replaced the toilets.. The new toilets will actually pump up 4 feet so that is wonderful.  It only actually will have to pump up 17 inches for the new tank.

Has anyone ever had a 410 Commander tank fail.

I was so surprised because its a freshwater boat it's whole life.

We almost removed the old tank but it was just to much work to get it out. I think we will fill it with foam.

Fortunately, I already have my new tank ready to plug n poop ........LOL so I can install it in an hour or less.

And on the 4th with 17 guests... 10 kids and 7 adults.. I think 45 gallons should work for the night.

Anyway, always something but we love love love the cruiser.  Any advise other than the way we are going is appreciated.

Karee

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Karee,

I recently purchased a 1980 CC Commander 410 - and am at the very beginning of a complete restoration.  My *hope* is that the existing holding tank is ok - but might end up doing the same as you.

Any idea what the capacity of the original tank was?

I will also be replacing both heads.  I'm assuming they are original.  Both were plumbed to use raw water.  Even though I'm also on a freshwater lake (Lake Travis, near Austin, TX) - I don't trust the old heads, want them to run off the fresh water system, and can't get to the thru-hull for the forward head.  The thru-hull for the aft head is difficult, but not impossible (at least I can see it...)   I'm assuming I can plumb the toilets to the water supply for the sink.  Is that what you did?

Anyway, good luck!  Please keep us posted on your progress, and what challenges you run into replacing your tank!

John

Yes a friend  purchased one well upriver got it to our harbor to find the tank perforated and and his wife receiving a big promotion requiring a  transfer to Colorado.  Initially he thought they might  retturn with some regulararity so he removed the  tank, it had to be cut to get it out. No end of the story the boat was sold and kinda disappeared from view.   There will be some difference in balance but mostly unnoticed, about like 2 or 3 adults moving to one side.

John, I don't have any idea why you would want to use on board water to flush, Timtation functions as delivered well over a half century later!

75 gallon I think was original.

on our boat we can get to both through hull water supplies snd do use lake water to flush.

on my Uniflite we were concerned about the condition of the through hull valve and did add a tank for fresh water feed.

kind of a pain though because you run out of water at times but it works.

I could imagine if the metal holding tank was not emptied frequently, or especially if it was left to dry out with urine in it, then liquid was added, the acidity could cause corrosion. Are you putting in a metal or plastic holding tank?

No we are going back with plastic.. should get me by until I am in a nursing home one day..LOL

Karee,

On my current boat (a Regal), I replaced the water and waste water tank monitoring system.  Tank monitors are NOTORIOUSLY unreliable.  However - it's REALLY nice to know when you're "full of <crap>"....

The monitor I picked the Garnet See Level II system, that is actually marketed for RV's.  There's a sensor strip that with adhesive backing that you stick to the side of the tank.  The strip is a flexible electronic circuit that senses the level of the liquid in the tank.  No moving parts - and best of all - it attaches to the OUTSIDE of the tank!!   No stinky installation!!!    I installed the system in Aug. of 2018, and so far, it's been working great!!

The only catch is that you have to have plastic tanks (the sensor obviously won't shoot through a metal tank).

I love having a reliable digital readout of how full the poop and water tanks are!!   There set comes with 3 sensors (fresh water, grey water, black water - and we don't use grey water tanks on most boats), plus an option to add a propane tank sensor.  And, just for grins, it also shows the voltage level - though it's measured at the panel, so may not be terribly accurate.

Anyway, thought I would mention that if anyone out there has plastic tanks and is thinking about a monitor.

I've seen my fair share of leaky and ruptured waste tanks .

I know they are no fun to remove but couldn't ever bring myself to abandon one . No matter how large the boat,  bilge space is always tough to come by or give up. Plus no matter how well you think you cleand a leaking tank, you will forever get whiffs of it and the area under the tank would still  have the leaked raw waste just sitting there.

Regarding using a freshwater tank to supply a head system , this is a nice thing to do.

The biggest reason older marine heads stink are not due to a holding tank but because of stagnant lake/ocean/river water sitting in the bowl for extended periods of time.

By drawing off a fresh water tank you nearly eliminate the source of the stink.

Plus if you want a vacuflush  system , it is necessary to supply pressurized fresh water to it.

However aside from that the old way of using lake/ ocean water to fill the bowl is just fine and has obviously worked for many decades. 

On my boat I relocated the head to a better ventilated area

Jeremy -- Now that's the best seat in the house!

Karee -- I designed my entire blackwater setup years back and used Trident 101 Sanitation Hose.  I highly recommend it.

Love it!

Jeremy Goldstein said:

On my boat I relocated the head to a better ventilated area

That looks very precarious. I'd move it up to the foredeck where the occupant can also handle the anchor. Oh, but then everyone else would be downwind.  That's a crappy plan. 

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