Hello, is there a special tool for adjusting the belt for the circulating pump? I have one belt that is loose. The outer part of the pulley has groves cut in it probably for some sort of tool.

                                                                          Thanks, Drew

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I use a brass punch wedged on the groove and smack it with a hammer, I use brass because it is softer that the steel threads in case it slides off you don't destroy them. Knock outer one loose, tighten the inner one to get tension and then retighten the outer one to lock it in place.

Thank you. Thought about a chisel but like your idea of a little better

Here's the wrench you could use ---

https://www.amazon.com/Vmotor-Chrome-Vanadium-Spanner-Adjustable/dp...

But you really don't need it. Following is a post from SuperDisc  !!

Try this -- it's in SuperDisc :-)

From: Dick Morland 
Date: Thu Jul 10, 2003 10:59am
Subject: 427 Circulating pumps

Mike wrote: what's the trick to removing the circulating belt.... just a spanner wrench to
slide the circulating pump off?
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
You're close. Actually, the large spanner nut you see in the front of the circulating pump is actually a locknut which locks the outer (forward) sheave on. This sheave is also threaded. If you can get one to fit, use a spanner wrench to remove the spanner nut. You'll probably have to tap the wrench a few times with a hammer to break it loose. If you can't find the proper spanner wrench, you can use a drift punch & hammer if you are careful. Place the tip of the punch in one of the slots on the OD of the nut and hold it as close to tangent as you can, then hit it gently with the hammer till it loosens. Do not hold the punch so that it almost points at the center of the pump shaft as you will most surely screw up your pump. After you have the spanner nut off, use a large Channelock type pliers to turn the outer sheave off. Now you can slide the belt off easily. Reinstallation is the reverse. I recommend cleaning all the threads and lubing them with a little oil or light grease. As you start tightening up the threaded outer sheave, it will contact the belt & refuse to tighten any more. At this point you have to turn the engine over with the starter a couple of turns. Make sure you unplug the coil wire before doing this as you sure as hell don't want the engine to start. As you turn the engine, the belt will climb outward between the 2 sheaves and you can now tighten the outer sheave a little more. Continue this process till you have decent belt tension for this pump. You might have to repeat this process a number of time to get the desired belt tension. The last step is to reinstall the spanner nut and lock it up tight against the outer sheave. Now you can reconnect the coil wire. Piece of cake! (But damn confusing if you have never seen it done before).

Regards,
Dick Morland 

Thanks Dick

Spanner wrench on order. It doesn't look like the collars on the pumps have ever had a chisel or punch on them before. What's another twenty-five bucks!

 Very useful information. Do you know the if thge size of the spanner wrench to be 2-4 3/4 inch ?

Thanks in advance, 

Abel

Dick Morland said:

Here's the wrench you could use ---

https://www.amazon.com/Vmotor-Chrome-Vanadium-Spanner-Adjustable/dp...

But you really don't need it. Following is a post from SuperDisc  !!

Try this -- it's in SuperDisc :-)

From: Dick Morland 
Date: Thu Jul 10, 2003 10:59am
Subject: 427 Circulating pumps

Mike wrote: what's the trick to removing the circulating belt.... just a spanner wrench to
slide the circulating pump off?
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
You're close. Actually, the large spanner nut you see in the front of the circulating pump is actually a locknut which locks the outer (forward) sheave on. This sheave is also threaded. If you can get one to fit, use a spanner wrench to remove the spanner nut. You'll probably have to tap the wrench a few times with a hammer to break it loose. If you can't find the proper spanner wrench, you can use a drift punch & hammer if you are careful. Place the tip of the punch in one of the slots on the OD of the nut and hold it as close to tangent as you can, then hit it gently with the hammer till it loosens. Do not hold the punch so that it almost points at the center of the pump shaft as you will most surely screw up your pump. After you have the spanner nut off, use a large Channelock type pliers to turn the outer sheave off. Now you can slide the belt off easily. Reinstallation is the reverse. I recommend cleaning all the threads and lubing them with a little oil or light grease. As you start tightening up the threaded outer sheave, it will contact the belt & refuse to tighten any more. At this point you have to turn the engine over with the starter a couple of turns. Make sure you unplug the coil wire before doing this as you sure as hell don't want the engine to start. As you turn the engine, the belt will climb outward between the 2 sheaves and you can now tighten the outer sheave a little more. Continue this process till you have decent belt tension for this pump. You might have to repeat this process a number of time to get the desired belt tension. The last step is to reinstall the spanner nut and lock it up tight against the outer sheave. Now you can reconnect the coil wire. Piece of cake! (But damn confusing if you have never seen it done before).

Regards,
Dick Morland 

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