Over the winter of 2020-21, I did valve jobs on both of my 427 engines, then installed aftermarket oil coolers and bypassed the originals. Next, I put new diaphragms in the OEM fuel pumps, and for the first time since we bought the boat in 2011, our 42 DC would jump up on plane and scoot. But then a month ago the starboard engine got warmer than usual ~185°. Dropping the RPM didn't bring the temp down, so I shut it down and ran on the port side back to the marina.

Next day, I found that the coolant level was low. I figured maybe I just hadn't burped it enough back in the spring. So I topped it up and went for a spin. Everything seemed fine.

A week later, the starboard engine once again got warmer than usual. Same pattern as before--a gallon of coolant went somewhere. But it wasn't in the bilge.

Things got busy, so I didn't take the boat out for a few weeks. Until yesterday. We hit the water and within 3 minutes at ~1,000rpm the temp took off again.

Today I popped the radiator cap and started filling...and filling...and filling. I'd put in a gallon of antifreeze, then go fill the container with water and pour it in the expansion tank. It'd almost go to the top, then I'd go fill the container with more water. But when I came back, the fluid level in the expansion tank was very low. This process repeated several times before I decided there's no way this thing has that big of a cooling system.

I started thinking all sorts of dark thoughts--my new head gaskets leak, by block or head(s) cracked. I checked the oil level and found it was perfect. So the coolant wasn't going into the pan. And that's when I noticed liquid dripping from the exhaust manifold studs (outboard, natch).

So I started pulling the exhaust manifold and discovered where all of those gallons of coolant were going: into the exhaust side of the log! Since the bend at the top of the riser is higher than the cylinder head, I figured I better pull the spark plugs. Coolant gushed out from 2 of the 4 spark plug holes on that side. I hit the starter, and jets of coolant sprayed out of 3 of the spark plug holes on that side.

After removing the log, I shone a flashlight inside the exhaust tube. I didn't see anything out of place at first, but then something caught my eye on the far side (the front end of the log). I pulled the front plate off the log and found a large perforation in the cast iron you can see below. As I was pouring gallon after gallon of antifreeze in the top, it was filling the manifold and riser, then flowing through the exhaust valves into the cylinders.

If anybody has any spare exhaust log front plates they can spare, I'm interested. I could weld the hole, but I'm pretty sure that wouldn't last long.

Cheers,
Q

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There is a guy on eBay parting out a CC 427.  I can't attest to the condition of the logs, but its probably worth an ask: https://www.ebay.com/itm/393392855167?hash=item5b980a987f:g:HbMAAOS...

Thanks John. I was in contact with him yesterday and may buy some of those pieces.

What bothers me about these things is that the engines have less than 800 hours on the Hobbs meters. When I got the boat, the port engine had a perforated intake manifold in the exhaust crossover. Others here have written about that problem over the years, but I disagree with their conclusions that an exhaust crossover for intake manifold heating is necessary in a marine application. Disabling it is the right approach, so I "modified" an old stainless steel butter knife and used the resulting material to block the port and solved that problem years ago.

Don't tell the missus...

But what is it with these marinized 427s devouring cast iron? The Detroit Diesel 671s in my old Connie never had cast iron parts perforating like this, and they had 4x as many hours on them. I posted this, in part, because I was curious if others have had similar issues.

Crossover on port engine perforated while checking stbd engine mods. Unfortunately I was at full throttle hard over in a turn monitoring the stb when rpm drop began and all oil was gone, blown out the fill tube, the plug later found in the bilge, and engine locked before I reached the key.  Repower included low pressure alarms, idiot lights and pressure gauges.

Tim

Q, Call me. I am pretty sure I got one. Scott

Only 800hrs of run time, but 440,000hrs exposed to sea water. 

Thx Scott! You got mail!

Mike, that's the funny part. This exhaust log end cap is at the end farthest away from the exhaust outlets. It's also farthest away from the showerhead section of the riser. And the it's coated with a fine layer of carbon, not rust. You'd think if it was sea water exposure that took it out, there'd be evidence of salt corrosion.

I wish I had a cutaway of the OEM intake manifold where they perforate at the exhaust crossover and this forward exhaust log end cap, just to see if they maybe skimped on wall thickness in those spots.

I preheated mine and MIG welded a patch, but it was not a pretty repair. It holds fluid, but I don't have the means to pressure test. Hopefully, my man Scott/Sterling will have one that'll work.

I'm sure that corroded from the water side in. 

Quentin said:

Thx Scott! You got mail!

Mike, that's the funny part. This exhaust log end cap is at the end farthest away from the exhaust outlets. It's also farthest away from the showerhead section of the riser. And the it's coated with a fine layer of carbon, not rust. You'd think if it was sea water exposure that took it out, there'd be evidence of salt corrosion.

I wish I had a cutaway of the OEM intake manifold where they perforate at the exhaust crossover and this forward exhaust log end cap, just to see if they maybe skimped on wall thickness in those spots.

I preheated mine and MIG welded a patch, but it was not a pretty repair. It holds fluid, but I don't have the means to pressure test. Hopefully, my man Scott/Sterling will have one that'll work.

Could be. But it's a fresh water-cooled engine, and there's just not very much corrosion on the water side of the part. Also, it doesn't show up in the photo, but the perforation is in the middle of a depression in the casting. It'll be interesting seeing if that depression was part of the original casting.

Mike H said:

I'm sure that corroded from the water side in. 

I take it that the engine has a closed system. With that said, how often do you change the antifreeze in the closed system. I have been told that , over time, the antifreeze builds up electralites and can start eating away at engine parts from the inside. I've had this happen to my Monte Carlo but it only ate the intake gasket. Since that episode I change antifreeze every year in the closed system and have had no problems. I actually use the antifreeze that I take out of the closed system and use it to help do the raw water side. Dave

The depression is likely how it was cast. I suspect that you probably have a part that suffered from some core shift and likely casting porosity.

Quentin said:

Could be. But it's a fresh water-cooled engine, and there's just not very much corrosion on the water side of the part. Also, it doesn't show up in the photo, but the perforation is in the middle of a depression in the casting. It'll be interesting seeing if that depression was part of the original casting.

Mike H said:

I'm sure that corroded from the water side in. 

CCCC member extraordinaire Sterling/Scott Shriber sent me a replacement part. It shows zero depression/ corrosion/ erosion in the area where mine failed. The exhaust side is clearly where mine was defective.

In related news, I drafted a dry-stack stainless steel riser solution. 0.065" wall thickness mandrel-bent SS304 tubing. Should work with the factory copper collector. Could probably be done for ~$1500/set of 2. Word has it the copper risers currently available are ~$1300 each.

Thoughts?

Scott is a power-member in by book.  We have exchanged several parts over the short time we've known each other.  

I am looking to replace may port side risers in the next year and I'm dreading the Marine Manifold Corp price tag.  I did my stbd side this season with a second hand set and the fit and performance is great, so I suppose you get what you pay for.  It would be great if you could design and fabricate these - I would be a willing beta tester :).  Availability of oil coolers, manifolds and risers are the primary factors separating 427s from staying in boats vs ending up in the scrap yards and having a low-cost alternative for risers is a step in the right direction.  I saw somewhere that someone designed a prototype manifold in stainless some years ago, but I think it remained just that.  That would be another great weapon in the arsenal.

Quentin said:

CCCC member extraordinaire Sterling/Scott Shriber sent me a replacement part. It shows zero depression/ corrosion/ erosion in the area where mine failed. The exhaust side is clearly where mine was defective.

In related news, I drafted a dry-stack stainless steel riser solution. 0.065" wall thickness mandrel-bent SS304 tubing. Should work with the factory copper collector. Could probably be done for ~$1500/set of 2. Word has it the copper risers currently available are ~$1300 each.

Thoughts?

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