I want to add an independent temperature sensor into my DD 8v53's. I have a Maretron system that supports up to 6 temperature probes. I use one for engine room, one on each of the stuffing boxes and would like to add one to each engine and the generator.
You add them into a hose with a fitting like this:
Question - where on the 8v53's would be the best place to take the temperature? I haven't looked at the water flow in detail, and have no idea where the thermostat is in the water system. I would expect I would want this on the engine side of the thermostat.
Can anyone point me to the hose I should insert this into? Then I can deal with the fact that most of 'hose' is solid with only small sections of actual hose.
It depends on what you are actually trying to measure and or prevent.
The 8V53 and 6V53 have two bypass type thermostats, one for each bank. Each bank also has an over temp switch in addition to the single temperature transducer for the helm gauge.
I can't get real excited about adding one more temperature sensor to monitor the engine block coolant temperature as you already have the three of that are located in optimal locations. Adding another sensor won't necessarily tell you too much more, assuming they are all working.
If you want to actually measure the engine coolant temperature, the bypass side of the thermostat would be the best place. To improve what is already being measured, you would actually need to monitor the bypass line from each thermostat. These lines are short and have a bend at the thermostat ends making the insertion of the temperature probe block rather impractical. It will also require a total of four temp probes.
If you really want to improve engine coolant temperature monitoring, i would suggest to put the probe in the seawater discharge line coming off the heat exchanger. This would actually help you in early detection of a developing problem such as sea water pump impeller failure, clogged sea strainer, and or a plugged heat exchanger. These conditions are not being monitored and are not noticed until the engine temperature actually starts to climb and would give early warning signs long before the engine coolant temperature is actually affected.
The temperature that you would measure at the discharge line will be highly variable depending on rpm and engine load but the max or peak temperature would give you an excellent baseline for the sea water side coolant system performance.
Thank you Ron - that sounds like an great idea. Have you seen a sea water and coolant flow diagram for the 8v53 marine engine? I have a service manual from 1990 for the engine but it doesn't show the heat exchanger in any detail.
Detroit does not provide a very good flow diagram. I think part of the problem is the variations in all of the possible combinations of engine configuration.
On the 8V53, the heat exchanger outlet is usually on the starbd side of the heat exchanger. This pipe has a radius and follows on top of the starbd exhaust manifold. At about the half way point, there should be a tee with a flow diverter valve that adjusts the heat exchanger discharge flow between the exhaust riser and a direct discharge overboard through an above waterline port. This particular configuration uses the Chris Craft risers which bolt directly onto the stern end of the exhaust manifold.
I would suggest to put the temp sensor just in front of the tee. There should be adequate room at this location without modifying any of the hard piping.
The port engine is piped almost identically with the exception that the hose coming off the flow diverter valve crosses over the top of the engine to the hull port side above water line discharge port.
If you take a picture of your engines from the front aimed towards the stern and post them here, I could circle the exact location in your engine piping.
Thanks Ronald. I'll post a pic of the engine once I can. For some reason my pictures refuse to upload to the site at the moment. Looking at the flexible hose just before the 'T', I don't think there is enough room to install the part required for the probe. Do you know if the hard pipes are formed at the ends, such as a bump, etc? Or could I just cut the hard pipe shorter and clamp the hose back on?