Seacock stuck - 47 Commander

The seacock on my 47 is an integrated strainer/seacock and I believe it is an original installation.  I got it moved two days ago, and today I cannot rotate it at all -- It looks like a 3 inch ballvalve and a strainer mounted on top of it.   I've beat on the bar handle; put a pipassembe on it for more leverage -- Nothing -- When I moved it two days ago I moved it right to left -  Today I can only move it to the right if it would move because the hose to the engine is in the way -- Figures.  Anyway -- Sugestions?!!!  I'm chasing an overheat event and it is starting to look like I have an obstruction between the lake and the raw water pump on the port 3208 TA.  I need to get that seacock shut so I can find out where it is.

The green assembly is the strainer with the strainer on top.  The whit item is the seacock.  the red item is the bar handle and has a pipe for levera10755254894?profile=RESIZE_710xge on over it.

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  • Probably a Groco valve and strainer.  Any part numbers on the strainer cap?  This will tell you what you are dealing with and how it works.

    You can still get replacement parts from Groco.

    On our 47 that had 427s, we have 3/4 inch Groco valves.  Are you sure yours are 3 inch???

    If it is a Groco valve, it's not a ball valve or a gate valve.  There is a TAPERED rubber plug in the valve with a hole through the middle.  Rotating the handle lines the hole up with the input and output.

    Don't torque on it, you will mangle the rubber plug.  Loosen the nut opposite the handle and tap the nut toward the handle.  You will unseat the tapered plug allowing you to freely move the handle.  A couple of taps with a hammer and you will hear it unseat.

    Of course this all assumes the diesel and gas versions of the 47s used the same Groco thruhulls.

    Other experts who know more can chime in.

    Also, better pics would help.  Pics of the whole assembly.  Pics of the part numbers.


  •  This might help...?
  •  Loosen the nut on the left, try to tap it to the body, then try rotating the handle. I had a similar valve,  all brass, and the plug and cylinder have a slight taper.

    Good luck 

  • Thanks  -- I'll head to the boat tomorrow to check for a model #.   It is a 3-inch, and I have tapped on the hex head nut side of the unit.  It did not move  -  I used a sledge hammer - I can try to really whack it but since the boat is afloat, I do not want to break it.  Also, can I rotate the valve from side to side.  And there are two screws on both sides of the valve body -- Can I remove them and squirt in PB Blaster?

  • Skill, science, and daring will always overcome ignorance. stupity, and blind-ass luck!!!

    Thanks to the responders, and a little sleuthing I have determined that the seacocks are: --  Stainless and not rubber and I can grease them if I install zirc fittings.  Tomorrows project --

    Thanks to everyone who pointed me in the right direction!!!!!



    BV-3000 3" Flanged Seacock | GROCO
    GROCO BV-3000 Bronze Flange Seacock is highest quality valve on the market. Period. Completely field serviceable. Solid stainless ball.
  • Certainly living up to your SLJO title and performing well.  I  remember Dick and I drooling over the beverage dispenser near the helm, has it been well maintained? 


  • Dennis, I think they are 2.5" seacocks if they are the same that Chris-Craft installed on my 47 with VT8-370Ms.  They sure look the same as mine.   I suspect they are standard tapered bronze seacocks, not SS ball valves like in that Groco link.

    I'm having a similar problem with them being stuck and read that a vinegar soak is a good idea prior to lubrication to free up corrosion.    I did one quick shot and it worked on the starboard side but my port side is really stuck.  I plan to buy another couple of gallons of vinegar and repeat soon.   Like you I also plan to pull the little drain plugs and install grease fittings.

  •  The one in your pic does not look much like the BV-3000, I think you have the old style.

    Mine were hard to move even with loosening the handle on the opposite side, required some silicone spray soaking for many days before they moved without a lot of force.  They were dry from decades in storage.  Don't use petroleum products on the rubber.  The conical rubber guts are no longer available, you will need to replace the whole valve if they get damaged.  Hopefully it isn't damaged and blocking flow after forcing it.

  • Thanks  -- I haven't been able to move it.  The image is of the valve and the strainer unit piped together. Supposedly the BV3000 has been in production from 1960 to 1993.  The boat is a 1973 Commander and it was repowered in 1987 so those dates are within the seacock production window.  
    I ordered the Groco lubricant to inject into the valve via the zirc fitting I have yet to buy. .  In the interim I'll use silicone spray.  Right now, the valve is in the "open" position, and I added another ball valve downstream of the seacock.  So I'm going to change out the impellers for both motors, and flush the freshwater side of the system.  The motor that heated up (Less than 220 degrees) was rebuilt three years ago, and all heat exchangers were flushed and pressure checked by a local shop.  The temperature was one mark before 220 degrees, and was there maybe for 3 minutes before I put the RPMs back down from 1700 RPMs to 1,000.  When I did that, the temp dropped to 180 degrees within minutes, and stayed there.
    Warren:  How did you "soak" the seacock?  Txs.
    Beverage dispenser: Looks nice but needs some electrical magic.  I think it has a bad ground.  The boat is a gin and tonic boat so we don't need the selection of the other types of booze.  I'll fix it before I sell the boat.   
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