I still have some condensation under a distributor cap. Had this issue on the other engine last year. I've had one suggestion to drill two very small holes in the cap, one between two points the other in the top to allow the moisture to evaporate. Has anyone hear of this or done this?
Matt, thanks for the comment. I have checked the timing on this engine. I do know that the Paragons rattle if the engine idles rough. this is the perplexing part. several other guys have been around as I've been troubleshooting this and the first comment is "oh your engines are running great... you sorted out the problem?" I think I can say with some certainty this has been several issues not just one. The moisture under the cap seems to be gone... I put in new plugs too. now I'm pretty sure this is a carb issue. I just haven't had enough time to go out and run it for any length of time. Each time it's only been 20-30 minutes. I don't think I've burned 10 gallons of fuel yet. I also need someone to be on the bridge while I watch everything under load.
Dave you are right to suggest something like that. a few weeks ago I did find a couple of the screws were loose holding the carb down. one was more than a full turn. I'm going to pull the top of the carb, and checking for any crap in the bowl... the needle may be getting stuck open. I'll then inspect it with a little more care and replace the gasket too.
Really praying for a solution soon as the yacht club has a long weekend Rendez-Vous on Friday.~!
20 to 30 is just about the right time for the coil to heat up, go open and quit until it is cooled off.
Tim you are reading my mind~!... I bought a new coil to swap out... but opened the box and it had a big dent in it... so will be doing that return today and installing tonight. I didn't want to just swap the coils, I don't have a spare on board anyway so it's a good idea to have bought one.
Ok... so lets through this out there. the PO installed the engines in 2011 and I've been slowly making them look like boat engines by removing the silly braided steel fuel lines. and the pink connectors that were hip on the 82 nova your aunt gave you in '92. one of the shiny objects he installed was a bright yellow Accel Super Coil. anyone care to weigh in on what the right coil is for my Mallory Distributor with Pertonix electronic ignition. I found a Pertronix 1.5 ohm coil suitable for 8 Cylinder engines. it is a black canister shape similar to what I've seen on other Mercruiser ... and GM V8s. It is their Flame Thrower Brand. Any other suggestions welcome!
I managed to get out for about 90 minutes last night... it was very nice. I managed to recreate the stall. 2 Weeks ago, there was an issue with the Cap, that is resolved. I know that because it doesn't die randomly now. It stalls as I come down from 2-3000 rpm to 1200. I can control the stall by giving gas. I was also able to come down very, very slowly and it didn't stall. I'm pretty sure the float is getting stuck and that's the culprit. I was successful in recreating the stall a couple times and preventing it. Each time I waited a minuted then it fired up again. I'm proceeding with the coils anyway. Thank you to those that contributed.
I'm pleased to report this issue is now fully resolved. I believe after the cap issue was resolved the carb float was just getting stuck, after running a couple tanks of fuel I forgot to monitor the issue and it hasn't happened again.
Russell, not sure what you are running for distributors but if they are Pertronix d200800 which are spec'd for a 454 they require .6 ohm resistor. The part number is 45011 which is a 45,000 volt coil and a .6 ohm resistance. You may not notice a problem right away but if you speak with the people at pertronix they say that the correct coil is a must. I believe it is to keep from burning out the electronic triggers.