Glass filters in front of engines and adjusting the stuffing nuts/box

Good morning Club!

We have finally taken ownership of what will be called "Irish Wake" now Paradise... I am bringing this beauty back from being a floating condo and now have the 7.4's purring. I am working through systems (As you know there are many...) and I see two glass canisters in front of each engine (This has a closed water system). I assume these are filters. As this boat has sat for many years I feel like I should open these and clean them out. Can the filter be cleaned or replaced and what are these called? I assume there is a valve in front of these that can be closed to open these so the boat does not sink while doing this?

Stuffing Boxes...

With all machines that are not usedd things dry out. I notice weeping not pouring from the shafts. The more recently used starboard engine is a weep the port which I just got running a minor leak. pumps easily can manage, I have seen online that this looks like a simple nut adjustment while in the water. Does the team here agree? It says not to over tighten and I get that. I need to move this boat 15 to 17 hours by river and don't want a major issue here. Any thoughts?

Original Owners manual

With the help of this site, I have been finding owners manuals for the various systems one by one. Thanks to everyone. I was wondering with the available thumb drive listed on the site if this would have a copy of the original 410 owers guide? This would really be helpful as then I can learn all the systems from the book. Is that part of that package?

Thanks all, we will begin posting video and pics to y'all can watch her transformation!

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Hi John, 

The library files section has the owner manual:

41/410 Commander

The superdisc has tons of information about 410's 

Preview the Master Subject Index through 2017

Preview of the 802 posts added in 2018

Groco strainers.

info attached.

Be sure to close the thru hull valve before you attempt to open them while the boat is in the water.

JohnBrock

Attachments:

This is amazing... Thanks so much

John,

You may be referring to the fuel pump diaphragm rupture containment devices that are mounted on the front of the starboard exhaust manifolds. (refer to photo)    In the "old days" if a mechanical fuel pump diaphragm started leaking it would leak directly into the bilge via a vent hole in the fuel pump body.    This would cause a dangerous situation and in fact if you dig deep enough in the internet you will find a lawsuit was filed against Chris-Craft regarding an explosion that resulted from a leaking fuel pump diaphragm.    At some point in the late '70's Chris-Craft introduced these glass canisters that were plumbed to the fuel pump body vent hole to retain the leaked fuel.  The canisters are supposed to be checked frequently for evidence of liquid, indicating a fuel pump repair is required.      At some point later (maybe 82?) this system was changed and a small hose ran directly from the fuel pump vent hole to the carburetor to allow the engine to consume the leaked fuel and this is the system that was adopted industry wide for marine engines with mechanical fuel pumps and carburetors.

Attachments:

Sorry, I reread your message and  I think John Brock got it, the Groco raw water strainers.    Make sure to loosen the T-handle first before trying to open or close the valve.

With regards to the stuffing boxes, if the stuffing is in good condition it is a simple adjustment to tighten them. Mine are a single nut with a cotter pin, some are a double locking nut arrangement. This can be done in or out of the water. Even if you remove the nut completely in the water, you are not going to sink the boat (providing you replace it fairly soon), really not that much water comes in. If the stuffing is too far gone because it has overheated or otherwise, these can be easily re-stuffed for very little money. This can be done in or out of the water. If you are doing it in the water, pre-cut 3 rings of stuffing for each side, have a pick ready to extract the old stuffing and make a tool to insert the new cleanly. I got the idea on here (I forget who from) to cut a 2-3" section of PVC pipe that fits your shaft and use it to gently push the stuffing in evenly. Of course if you can do all of this out of the water, it's much less stressful.

Be VERY careful about over tightening. I fought with mine over a 2 year period, I even put temperature sensors on the stuffing nut. They were re-stuffed twice over that time. The last time I did it myself, and tightened what I thought was loose, and it was still too tight. What I've come to accept, and I've been told is fine by a knowledgeable marina owner with experience - is they will drip more than you want them too. Particularly for the first number of hours of running time after you stuff them. Mine dripped several times a minute even with the boat at the dock. Eventually the stuffing swells further and that slows. I now drip about 1 per minute at the dock - but my shafts run happily 10-15 degrees above water temperature for the first time in 2 summers. At the worst (when i was trying to have no drips at the dock) I'd seen temperatures approaching 200 degrees. Now that everything is running well, I could probably tighten them another bit, but I wont. From rain and other sources (rudders, trim tabs), I always have water in my bilge, I really don't care if the shafts are adding a tiny bit more. But I had the most relaxing season this summer not having to worry about the shafts. 

That is all to say, I would personally re-stuff (so you know what is there is good) and start them much looser than you think. Keep them dripping more than you think is required for at least the first 2-3 hours of running and then start to tighten a bit at a time, having an infrared temp gun (or your hand) to check the temperature while running. They should not be hot to the touch (warm, not hot) and ideally not more than 20 degrees over water temperature.

One note on singe nut stuffing boxes. I found one side tightened by the normal right hand rule. Clockwise was tighter. On the other side it was reverse threaded. Turn left to tighten.

I don't recall, but expect the  PORT side is the reverse thread side. (based on shaft rotation direction)

John Brock

Good point. The T handle eluded me on my first encounter with these. John

Warren Whitmore said:

Sorry, I reread your message and  I think John Brock got it, the Groco raw water strainers.    Make sure to loosen the T-handle first before trying to open or close the valve.

Here's that T handle ... depending on access and orientation it's not always in line of sight.

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