I was wondering if anyone knew the height of my 1972 Chris craft commander 41'. I do not have the optional command bridge and I know the top will need to be taken off for transport but companies are asking height of yacht and I cannot find it anywhere. My yacht is in Kentucky and I'm in Illinois therefore taking measurements is impossible for me at this time. Thanks for any help in advance

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I believe the measurement "With Mast Lowered" is for the non-Command Bridge models.  Note: this is from the water line, for a total height measurement the draft must be added.

I have that picture in front of me and I was going to guesstimate. This is our first yacht and trying to find transportation to get it to Illinois I didn't know how exact the companies would need on height for transportation. Thanks so much for you reply, I greatly appreciate it!

First and foremost, excellent choice.  I too have a 1972 '41 with no bridge - there can't be more than a handful left in this configuration left out there.  I absolutely love the no bridge look on this model.  Mine is hull #004 of the 41/410 model line.

Back to logistics: These boats left the factory with the hardtop removed for clearance, and the dealer installed them later.  Chances are likely that the same will be necessary to transport over the road today.  These boats are tricky to transport due to the motoryacht height and the large beam but doable. 

Rule of thumb is to get the height overall under 12'.  The transporters have lowboy trailers that ride a few inches off the ground for maximum overhead clearance.

Thanks so much for your response. The prior owner did tell us that the top would have to be removed. We are weighing our options on transporting by land or my husband take the long trip home by river. Just trying to find the most cost effective and safest way to get our yacht home to us.


I think you will find, depending on the current location, that transporting by water will likely be your least expensive method of transport if you have the time available to do it. This is assuming that your final destination is either on the Mississippi River, the Illinois River or Southern portion of Lake Michigan.

Removing the helm top without the fly bridge is not technically difficult, just a pain. You also need a method to hoist the top off and back on. It is much to heavy and awkward for a few healthy guys to handle safely.

Removing the top also carries the risk of breaking glass and having some window leaks when you put it back together. You already might have a few leaks now anyway so this might not actually be a problem but an opportunity to fix some issues.

There is also the the issue of the props. Depending on the haulers particular trailer, you will likely also need to remove the propellers. Again, not a difficult thing but it does take time which equates to dollars if someone is getting paid to do all of this.

When contacting shippers I would urge a little caution and discretion in whom you go with. Some of the haulers that are on Ship-it are not all set up to move a boat the size of the 41. For this move I think a good ball park cost would be around $6,000-$10,000. Depending on how much prep you do vs. how much the hauler needs to do will be the biggest variance in quotes. Just make sure everyone knows up front what is expected and checking recent references is a must.

The keel to the top of the helm in transport position will be approx 12ft. This means the helm roof is off and the helm it self is laid back to lower the height. The 41 Commander just makes a legal height load when you do everything correctly.

The one caveat about moving the boat by water and if it is a recently purchased boat is that you will not know the exact mechanical status of the boat until you are actually underway. No matter how good of condition the boat is, things break and or need attention. Things like plugged heat exchangers tend not to rear their head until the boat is actually underway for several hours. You will likely need to plan for such contingencies in your trip schedule.

There is also the issue of planning your trip. Since your trip will require you to be going up river, the timing of your trip will be greatly affected by the river conditions. Both the Illinois and the Mississippi Rivers have large variances in current depending on seasonal and specific rainfall event rates in the water shed. What you don't want to do is plan for a trip at the 8knt hull speed and find yourself going against an 8knt current which does happen at times.

Personally, I would go for the trip.  I assume that is why you bought the boat to use and bringing it home to its new port is a fun way to do it if it fits into your schedule.

Good Luck

Wow thank you so much for all the information and advice. We are waiting on some quotes now but taking the river route is definitely not out of the question. My husband is wanting to take the river to bring it home I just wanted to weigh all options before jumping into such a big move. Thanks again your reply was greatly appreciated!!!

Jennifer, are you going to keep the boat on the Alton pool? If so can you bring it on it's own hull this Spring? I am reasonably familiar with the 41/410's and the pool, we are at Harbor Point in West Alton.  This Harbor is home to several 41 and 410s including the former PMS (Pack My Stuff), our companion to the Mecca Rendezvous. If you want to discuss let me know,  if you call the profile number you will need to leave a message, as a listed number it seems to have a primary assignment to collect robocalls.

Good luck, 


Thank you Tim we are currently looking into prices for a slip also but I will definitely be contacting you to find out more. Thanks again!

I agree with Ron.  I almost bought a wooden Constellation from down south at one point and the transport from NC to MA was right at that $8K mark.  Add the fact that wooden boat transporters (yes, there is a difference) charge a premium.  Those old girls need support in all the right places before they bounce down the interstate.

The way I see it, 8 boat bucks could be better spent getting the usual suspects (tune-ups, hoses, belts, fluids) as well as some larger maintenance items sorted prior to the trip.  Taking a long trip in a new boat can be nerve-wracking as you wait for disaster to strike (or not).  However, careful planning, which includes twice the time you'd expect the trip to take and Tow Boat US can ease some of that anxiety.  I went once step further when I made my big trip and I reached out to marinas on the route ahead of time to gauge their ability to work on the boat in the event something over my head goes kaput on the way.  Now, this may sound like all doom and gloom, but to Ron's point, you will know everything about that boat when you are done with the trip which is priceless.  

Thanks for the advice and tips! Greatly appreciated!


After you mentioned the boat name and needing two propellers, that rung a bell.

Please do not take what I am going to say wrong but I now have some concerns about your perception of the boats real cost to get to your home port, and seaworthy.

This boat is what many here would consider a project boat. I have no issues with choosing a project boat as long as you are aware of what the total cost will be and what the actual value of the boat will be at completion.

Before you put anymore money into this boat you need to put together a realistic project budget with plenty of contingency money in it unless you already have.

This particular boat also complicates any plans of floating the boat to its new home. Having the boat hauled would eliminate a lot of risk, side issues, and resolve time issues.

Since the boat has been stored on the hard for a time, we don't know of its seaworthiness. Where you are currently financially with the boat, it is likely that you can scrap the boat for more then you paid for it. Not saying to do that but that is our initial starting point. Everything that you spend money on the boat from this point on will take you further away from this initial point until you get it seaworthy and in the water at which point it will then have a general value as a floating and quazi-functional.

As Joe pointed out, spending money on moving the boat is money that can be put into the boat to address issues that need addressing. The problem with doing this is that you need enough calendar  days to do the required work in vs. how soon the boat needs to be moved from its current location.

Now if you have the boat hauled, you will still need to address all of the issues that affect the boat floating. This means you can't put the boat in the water at the home port before you work on the boat.

For starters I would expect to repack the prop shaft stuffing boxes. Also since the props are already off and the age of the boat, you should consider replacing the flex hose that is between the stuffing boxes and the hull prop shaft opening. You will want to also consider the condition of all of the thru-hull fitting backing blocks. Considering the age of the boat, it might be a good idea to re-bed all of the thru-hull fittings.  The seacocks should also all be disassembled, cleaned and lubricated. You should also consider doing a bottom job while the boat is on the hard if time and budget allows.

The bilge pumps need to be verified and tested for function. Likely the float switches will not work and or the pumps seized. The bilge pump hoses need to be checked and possibly replaced if they show signs of deterioration. Also all of the hoses should be verified for being USCG compliant.

The rudder and trim tab stuffing boxes should be checked and verified. At this point the boat should float. 

Now you will need to go through the fuel system. Likely the gas in the tanks is garbage from setting and need to be removed. The tanks should also be cleaned at this time. Fuel hoses should also be replaced using USCG compliant hose.

Now you are ready to get the engines going. Probably new batteries needed, new sea water pump impellers, engine tune ups, oil changes, transmission oil changes. Might need carbs kitted or replaced from old gas in the bowls.

The helm steering system is hydraulic. There is a hydraulic reservoir on the fuel tank bulkhead on the stbd. side with a gauge on it. The reservoir needs to be pressurized for the steering system to work properly. Tank needs to be pressurized and then the hoses, tubing, and steering motor that the helm wheel attaches to verified for zero leaks.

At this point the boat is now ready to be safely used in the water. Then you can start to work on the air conditioners, heads and associated plumbing, electrical system, etc.

Trying not to scare you but unfortunately this is the reality with a big older boat. Now if you have the time, ability, and find a project such as this rewarding with a budget and pocket book to support it then going ahead might be a good fit. If you lack the time, skills and money, you should really reconsider going on this journey.

I do not want to be a destroyer of dreams but to often these dreams rot in the back of the marina yard with weeds growing about them. Either way you choose to go, we will support you with answers to any additional questions.

Jennifer Waters said:

Thanks for the advice and tips! Greatly appreciated!

I am thinking there was no survey,  if true is the purchase completed?  To insure the boat a survey will be required and all marinas will require proof of insurance at some level of liability, in this area generally $500,000.

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