How long should 327F take to start w/ mechanical fuel pump?

If it's been a few weeks since the boat was used, I will have to give the throttle lever 5-10 pumps all the way forward and then crank the ignition, repeating this process 4-5 times before it eventually fires up. I assume this has something to do with the fuel pump needing to pump fresh gas up to the carb. Once started and warmed up, she can be shut down and immediately started back up on the first attempt. Even if the boat sits overnight, it will fire right up the next day. I just want to make sure this is normal, or should I be concerned for my starter's well-being? Thanks!

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Mine does this too even with new Edelbrock carbs . It’s quite irritating and I think has to do with the carb design allowing fuel to either evaporate or leak out of the bowls over time. 

Mine did it too, even after changing the carbs.

I considered going to electric fuel pumps but never did.

John Brock

OK so it seems to be normal... must be why you don't see mechanical pumps anymore (along with their ability to fill the bilge with fuel when the diaphragm leaks....)

Both my 327's would start within 5 seconds of cranking, even after not starting for a week. My points have been eliminated with the conversion kit. I feel that likely helped. It was already done when I purchased the boat.

This spring I had to replace both fuel pumps, stayed with mechanical. They still started great, then I had one carb start dumping fuel into the engine when it should not have. Needle was likely stuck. I had that carb rebuilt. Now that engine takes a lot longer to start when first started. It will restart after use instantly.

In the past I would pump the throttles once, about halfway up, turn the key for 2-3 seconds and they were running. Now I play the guessing game with one engine...Pump it, don't pump it, pump it a lot, crank-crank, wait, crank some more.

Next spring I am hoping to cure that issue.

Steve, How do you plan to address the problem, do you suspect the carb was not rebuilt properly? I still have a lot to learn about these old boats, mine is 20 years older than me and before the boat, I'd only ever worked on modern fuel injected cars. For a lot of things I've encountered while getting it running again, these forums are my only source of info. Thanks for any advice!
Steve Riley said:

Both my 327's would start within 5 seconds of cranking, even after not starting for a week. My points have been eliminated with the conversion kit. I feel that likely helped. It was already done when I purchased the boat.

This spring I had to replace both fuel pumps, stayed with mechanical. They still started great, then I had one carb start dumping fuel into the engine when it should not have. Needle was likely stuck. I had that carb rebuilt. Now that engine takes a lot longer to start when first started. It will restart after use instantly.

In the past I would pump the throttles once, about halfway up, turn the key for 2-3 seconds and they were running. Now I play the guessing game with one engine...Pump it, don't pump it, pump it a lot, crank-crank, wait, crank some more.

Next spring I am hoping to cure that issue.

I have been in a leg cast since July so my boating has really been reduced. We did manage to get out about twice a month lately but prior to being in a cast and on crutches we were getting out two often three times per week.

I am physically not able to get down by the engines at this time so that is why this is waiting until spring. When I am able to get to the engines, prior to attempting to start them I want to remove the flame arrester, pump the throttles and see if fuel is getting shot into the engines. I will also be comparing one engine to the other.

If the engine that is hard starting and recently had the carb rebuilt does not shoot fuel into the engine immediately (when the throttle is pumped) I will discuss this with my mechanic. My thinking is that something may be allowing the bowls to leak down when the boat sits for a week or more. This should be a repairable item.

This is my third season with this boat and it just recently started to act up, after the carb was rebuilt.

I own a 1968, Commander, 35'. My engines have just under 400 hours on them after a major rebuild. The points were eliminated with Pertronix modules, utilizing the original distributors. The distributor conversion and engine overhaul occurred prior to my purchase of the boat, although I do have all the receipts.

Captain  Steve  ............  Consider replacing the check valve / pump check valve in the base of the carb accelerator pump well  of the engine that needs additional throttle pumping . That check valve part " is not supplied " with many carb re- build kits .  A bad / leaking check valve will push fuel back into the float bowl and not the carb throat venturi when throttle pumping many times at the helm .  That is a very common problem with re-builds and why many owners just replace the carbs unaware of the check valve issue  and convert to electric fuel pumps which just bring on more issues  with low fuel flow performance .

Your choke must also  be set to spec at " 68 degrees F air temp " or that will create cold start  issues too . 

Go to  www.walkerproducts.com  to purchase the correct check valve .  They are an OEM  supplier to the retailers like Sierra , Napa and many more .

Select their online tab : Carter / Carter 4 bbl / Avs /  Parts  # 53 -73  pump check assembly 

Tim

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It is a bad check valve in the Carb Float bowl as Tim stated. Crank the engine while counting to 10, pump the throttles 3 times carnk and it will fire,  It has nothing to do with the fuel pump.

Thanks Tim and Rob. I will replace the check valve on that carb.

I replaced fuel pumps because they were spritzing fuel into the bilge. The new ones, although still mechanical have the fitting where I was able to add a return line and be less likely to blow up.

 lftmx3 I think the check valve is going to correct your hard starting.

Captain  Steve  ........ Since you have replaced both fuel pumps , you have eliminated any possible issues with " weak check valves also  in the fuel pumps " .  Reminder hint , have  your service guy check for " wide open throttle plates "  with the carbs  removed when turned upside down on a bench , measured with a 90 degree gauge at carb base & throttle blades . That procedure is overlooked with every carb re-build . Close is not good enough when stomping on Sea Rays !

All Carter afb / avs carbs that were installed on Chris Craft engines were set at only 7/8 throttle & not full wide open !  That was to protect the engine warranty since there were no electronic rpm limiters back in the day .

The engines would reach correct max rpm per service manual but the carbs were only set at 7/8 open !

I assume the service group also added the fuel pump overflow vent tube to carbs with your new pumps .

Edelbrock carbs are all set to full throttle opening from their factory supplier  .

Keep us posted

Tim /  216-973-eight one zero 4   for more help 

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