I am just about to remove the original, round, bulkhead-mounted, galvanized hot water tank from Ruby (1969 42 CC Commander). There is a brownish batt insulative material surrounding the tank, It is held in place with masking tape and there is a sheet metal cover over the whole works.
Does anyone know what the material is of the insulation ie. asbestos!!! or cellulose?
This is looking like one of those "horror jobs" and I want to be prepared.
Mine was missing an outer cover, the insulation is fiberglass.
Fiberglass... mine gave up the ghost after 49 years of service. Removal of the whole thing is pretty straight forward, but no need to worry about asbestos there. Just be careful and it should come out no problems. I replaced mine with an 11 gallon square unit.
Chris, we need to talk, toe rail kicking my ass.
Thank you and I will now proceed......!! gal. square Chris.
here you are Bob
I bought a round one, cannot recall the vendor, but it’s in an old post. It bolted right up in the same spot. It was not the cheapest one out there. It has a mixing valve coming out of the tank that allows you to control the water temperature and extend the duty cycle.
This is what I am considering, Max Marine Electronics in Pompano have them, NOS. less that $200.
Byron, I have experience of about 6 years with the Emax Tankless Hot Water system. We had the 220V version.. after countless heating element failures (coiled toaster wire in a tube) in the first 2 years I call the company. What I found out is that nobody lets you know the difference between dual contact and single contact relay solenoid controller boards. Ours was a single.. allowing transient voltages on the connected side to travel to the element causing the galvanic reaction at the connection lug, corroding off each time.
They sent a new dual leg disconnect relay board out and 2 new elements... I replaced all with new, was fine for about 6 months then the same thing. The wire would corrode off the lug inside the cartridge.. No Go again.. the lug is chromed brass with a screw to clamp the element wire with. At that connection either side they would break off.
Called them again. They determined it is because of our well water!!! Really... we have a filtered/softened conditioned system.. I ran it both ways.. soft and hard, done the same thing. Can't imagine what shore water systems would cause?
Ironically I went with a under counter 6gal 110V to replace it with... it is just for a lav and slop sink in our studio so we didn't need hot water all the time. For all the trouble we had with the on demand Emax system, I really can't recommend it!
Thanks for the info, will go conventional!
This is what I have.