Ok commander club guys having a hard time getting the long bolts out of the top of the Exhaust manifold I can feel the bolt twisting but it’s not braking lose. I wirewheeled the threads and have been putting penetration oil on but still think it’s going to snap. Hate to put heat on it in the engine bay. It’s a 427  

                                                                                                                   As always thanks guys thanks 

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keep soaking and start tapping with a center punch and hammer.  Be patient!

Acetone and tranny fluid about 50/50. It is the best penetrating fluid. Besides tapping the bolt as Byron said. Tapping the wrench alo helps. Mini impacts to break it free.

Heat Valve Lubricant is a GM product.  You can buy it at Chevrolet.  I use to use this in the 70s on exhaust

bolts/nuts. It works great.


I'm assuming you are trying to take the exhaust manifold off. From the factory, these manifolds had 4 hex head bolts, 3/8-16 X 5 1/2" and 4 stainless steel studs about the same length. The last engine I did had the SS studs on the top and the bolts on the bottom, and I'm pretty sure that engine had never been taken apart. If you can't get the studs out, you can't slide the manifold off of them and you will have to do what I did ---

If you look closely, you will see the studs on top. I could not break these loose by double nutting them and wrenching really hard on them.  If my memory serves me right after a whole bunch of years, I was able to break the 4 lower bolts loose, but without getting the studs out I was screwed. The picture shows what me and 2 husky buddies did --- Yes, it's really heavy but it worked and I was able to slide the manifold off the studs and then penetrating oil and a small pipe wrench convinced the studs to break loose. You seemed to indicate bolts on the top row. Do you then have studs on the bottom row? If you are just trying to get the manifolds off for some riser issues, I think I would continue trying an in-boat removal. I, however, was doing a valve job on this boat so taking the head and manifold off as a unit was no big hassle except for talking my buddies into supplying muscle and Patty into supplying the cold beer enticement !

Remember, if you do have 4 studs in this engine you have to be able to get them out or your only remedy is removal of the head and manifold as a unit. Good luck !

Hey Dick  I have the studs on the bottom they came right off  on top I have the long bolts. I have not tried to put to much on them. I can feel the bolt twisting I have the big Milwaukee inpact that will take anything off or brake it. What I don’t want to do is brake it right at the head. I think I’m going to cut off the head of the bolt pull the ex manifold off then put some heat on it and a stud remover should do the job.  That’s what I’m doing is a valve job and new valve seals           Thanks for the help Dick 

Thomas - If you cut the head off of the frozen bolt you still have around 5" of headless bolt still in the head. I don't think the manifold will slide off before hitting the stringer. Save me a bunch of keyboard pounding and give me a buzz at 847-341-1149 and I'll give you a couple of ideas.

Dick is correct. It will not come off. I did like Dick did and pulled the head and manifold all in one. 

Hi guys I took it all off as one then removed the riser and then took the head and manifold off the  boat it was not that heavy but was not fun going down the ladder now I will put some heat on it  I tried everything to get them off you could feel the bolts twisting I’m going to bet a lot of bolts have been broken off in these motors thanks guys only three more to go

Sterling Shriber said:

Dick is correct. It will not come off. I did like Dick did and pulled the head and manifold all in one. 

Thomas --

You still might want to try sawing the head off the frozen bolt even  though you know have the head & manifold off as a unit. Now you can slide the manifold off the head and get acetone/ power steering penetrating fluid right where you want it and let it set for a couple more days with frequent tapping with a hammer to break things loose. Then I would take a medium size pipe wrench to try & break it loose. Put an extension pipe on the wrench handle, apply a steady & slowly increasing pressure on the handle while tapping with a hammer a portion of the pipe wrench handle.  Worst case scenario is the bolt breaks off flush and you have to drill & tap to repair. At least you can have the head in a comfortable position for this operation.


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