Good afternoon all. Wondering if I can buy just new condensers for my 1975- 41' AC system?

The cooling units and fans are still operational as I jumped them out and I have pressure tested the units to make sure there were no leaks.  The thermostats and other controls are still in place. Not looking for original parts, just compatible replacement condensing units for a split system Heat/AC 

Also anyone know the original btu size for the main salon as well as the master stateroom?

Thanks, Kevin

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Kevin, Before I answer your question I have one for you.  I have the same boat different year (1977) look on condenser and find the refrigerate that is used.  I believe it is r-22 i was surprised to find this on my boat as i was expecting r-12.  R-22 is difficult to find and very expensive and would hate to see you spend the resources on something that will be difficult to maintain. I believe my master suite was 12,000 btu and the main 16,000 btu and forward cabin 9,000 btu.  I believe the best bet is to replace the unit with a stand alone one piece package unit that will easily fit in the over head space above the forward bunk.  they range in price around 1500-2000.00.  this is with all new controls and equipment.  this will remove your units from the bilge area and make a better system that is more efficient and quieter.  This is the route I will be taking this coming fall as my refit has taken me in a unexpected direction.(go figure).



I have been in the Marine a/c business for the past 35 years, currently in South Florida. Your units do have R22 in them which is still available. If you want to replace just the condensing units they will come with R417. This is compatible with your current evaporators on board. You will have to have an a/c tech evacuate the lines to remove all the R22 , air and moisture, and recharge with R417. The benefits of R417 are lower operating pressures and a little lower running amperage. Do you have Cruisair or Marineair? Do you have 3 knob controls?
Your other option is self contained units as Larry suggested. The challange with this is you need to mount these units in the living space, Not the engine room. The units are Not ignition protected. If you mount them in the living space you will need to run 5/8" seawater lines from the pump to each unit and overboard. You will have to remove the existing evaporators and do some duct work. You will also have to upgrade to a digital control as they no longer make a unit compatible to a manual 3 knob control. I would replace just the condensing units in the engine room if it was my boat, provided the evaporators are in good working order. Keep the compressor noise in the engine room.
If I can help you any further feel free to e-mail me at
Mike DeLayo

Hello Kevin.

I like what Mike said about just replacing the condensers with the R 417. It makes it a easy swap out. YOU STILL NEED A AC TECH. one thing you need to look into before going this the 3 way valve and the metering device in the condenser or in the air handler...IT MAKES A HUGE DIFFERENCE. My 3 way valve is on the condenser...I have seen photos of new ac units and it looks like the 3 way valve is on the air handler????

Be careful of this.

good luck...Jim

Very observant. The 3 way valve (Reversing Valve) will always be on the condensing unit in all models, new and old. The expansion valves (Metering Device) are actually on both the evaporators and condensing units on ONLY the New Dometic Emerald series which uses R410 refrigerant. I think that is what you saw on the evaporator. If you switch to R410 refrigerant you need to change evaporators and condensing units. It all has to be compatible. And if the copper tubing is old, it also needs to be changed. R410 Gas has an operating pressure double R22 or R417. R417 units are readily available, no need to switch to the R410 models.

Mike DeLayo

Words to the ??? about the self contained units (SCU).  Somewhere long ago I posted my experiences removing the wart, a Coleman A/C installed by the PO in the forward hatch.  I installed a self-contained A/C with electric heat rated at 20K btu.  Overall I have been very happy with the unit and on a 35 there were few choices given the available space.  Caveat is they are noisy!  The ducting to the spaces carries the sound as well as the air.  The upside is that you can hang meat in the salon in the summer and in 20 minutes you can be in shirt sleeves in the winter when it is 20 degrees F outside.  Until this point I was disappointed that the unit was not reverse cycle.  Getting warm on board when the harbor is iced over is a real treat, a treat not available with reverse cycle!  I have decommissioned the boat in early December with the aft curtains down, the engine hatches and the companionway door open wearing only a sweatshirt thanks to the electric heating side of the SCU.

If you have the remote A/C I would recommend maintaining the system you have.  It is quieter than the alternative, is installed and was designed for the space.  Replacing with an SCU will require ducting, think 4" or larger, addition of vents, probable removal of existing lines and fan powered radiators.

Timothy, in your experience, the self contained units are noisier than OE?



Q, the self contained have the single squirrel cage fan to distribute the air which provides all the noise.  The ducts carrying the air carry the noise.  With the condenser in the bilge and the radiator remote you only have the fan sound of the radiating unit.

Another item I forgot to mention is potential for odor.  The seals for the return air need to be very good or air from the bilge will get into the circulation.


Good Morning CCC members,

 As some of you may have seen Lisa and just purchased this beautiful 1980 410. All in all she was sitting for 8 years. I have brought back both 454 (Nicely updated in 2000 with Marine Power full Fuel-injected engines. Both run great and I now need to tighten the stuffing boxes as when we moved her they leaked a bit more than forum indicates they should. 

HEATING- All three systems operate but the salon unit cycles down and will stop heating and then tries to restart but will only come back on if I turn it off allow it to sit and then restart. IS this dirt? I know these have not been serviced in a while so could that be it? When the salon unit is on it is fantastic. These must be electric heating systems (I think..) My question is why does the compressor have to run when the heat is on? 

Is this simply a service issue or should I have a Marine heat/AC representative service these? I am very good with tools and capable BUT not a Heat/Ac expert.

I am based in Knoxville (Not there yet have to move her 17 hours!). I would like to get the heat back to operational before the move.

Thanks for the help.

John, the  heat and cooling  is reverse  cycle  thus  the  compressor  runs.  My guess  is  the  refrigerant  is low.

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