Hello all, I would like to change impellers before starting engines. While looking at the files I found replacement part numbers for the sea water pump, but not for the water circulating pump. Could someone offer insight on this?

Last night while first time on the boat, I found that the cabin and salon lights seemed to be only working on the 12VDC circuit. All breakers were on (both Ac panel and DC panel). I found this by accident. While squeezing down beside the starboard engine to diagnose a non stating engine in an attempt to read voltage to the starter, I found a mess and excess of wire (white and black) laying to the right side of the starboard engine just behind the batteries. As I moved that wire the VHF and cabin lights came on. I removed the excess and properly connected the white and black which lead to a ground on the engine block and to a small electrical component attached to the right side on the engine just forward of the starter. I then realized the lighting was connected to the 12 VDC.

My uncertainty might well be due to limited knowledge of how these classics were built, my Carver lighting worked on both AC and DC circuits. Any thoughts on this little mystery will most certainly be appreciated!

While perusing the Ac panel I found a residential light switch noted as "rectifier" . Another mystery to me, Could someone pass along the knowledge of this component?

Thank you all!  

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Oops, lesson learned, thanks to Dick Morland I answered the questions about the circulating pump. Amazing that darn thing contains a thermostat... Now how would have thought it. Sorry for the newbie mistakes gentlemen.

On my boat the rectifier switch operates the battery charger. Always leave that switch on.

Mark - not sure if Dick called you or you found something with his name on it, but if you ever do crack that housing open, be VERY careful with the t-stat. There’s a small plastic ring that allows it to slide open and closed. That ring is not replaceable, so exercise extreme caution.

The rectifier converts AC to DC. There is a voltage regulator on the outflow to attain the desired voltage. Our built in battery chargers reduce the 120 VAC shore current to 12 VDC (or whatever your operating on). Otherwise the voltage would destroy our batteries. 

Light bulbs can only operate on a given voltage, 120 or 12, not both. On my boat (1985) I have two separate interior lighting systems, one on the shore power, one on the the house batts. On my Luhrs (1975) I had one interior light system. It operated on the 12 volt. I had 120 outlets which you could plug a lamp in to when on shore power, but the salon and cabin lights still drew off the batts. 

Thanks Matt, I found an article he wrote. You guys are a wealth of knowledge!



Matt Cowles said:

Mark - not sure if Dick called you or you found something with his name on it, but if you ever do crack that housing open, be VERY careful with the t-stat. There’s a small plastic ring that allows it to slide open and closed. That ring is not replaceable, so exercise extreme caution.

That makes more sense now, thank you!

Nat Brady said:

The rectifier converts AC to DC. There is a voltage regulator on the outflow to attain the desired voltage. Our built in battery chargers reduce the 120 VAC shore current to 12 VDC (or whatever your operating on). Otherwise the voltage would destroy our batteries. 

Light bulbs can only operate on a given voltage, 120 or 12, not both. On my boat (1985) I have two separate interior lighting systems, one on the shore power, one on the the house batts. On my Luhrs (1975) I had one interior light system. It operated on the 12 volt. I had 120 outlets which you could plug a lamp in to when on shore power, but the salon and cabin lights still drew off the batts. 

Great, thank you!

Chris Wickersham said:

On my boat the rectifier switch operates the battery charger. Always leave that switch on.

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