The deteriorating gas tanks have been removed and the straps that secure them were mostly completely rusted thru. The muflers are going to be replaced as they have rusted thru also.
There was a dangerous situation in the exhaust system where the 4.5" dia exhaust coming from the copper engine collectors needed to be reduced to the 4"dia. Coper pipe going back to the mufflers
There was auctually steel welded to the end of the copper pipe for the reduction which seems crazy to me that chris craft could have chose to use dissimilar metals. When I dismantled this area it became apparent that a rusty slury had been leaking in this area for many years but went unnoticed being hidden outboard of the gas tanks which are now removed. After speaking with Tim Toth today it sounds like he also has this same exact reduction in his otherwise copper exhaust system.
The 427 are also getting some much needed work. The intakes will be replaced as there are holes in them. All the hoses and seals , half of the engine mount bolts were either rusted completely thru or broken so they will get replaced along with a few engine mounts which became fused to the broken mount bolts with years of water dripping on them. Because of the broken mount bolts and rusted out lags the hold the additional Douglass fir engine beds I will also be replacing the wobbly engine beds as needed to assure that there is a solid engine mountig surface. While the engines are apart everything will be inspected and adressed as needed as well.
Brand new tanks and fuel lines will be going in
All new wire harness to the engines and all 12 volt wireing in the dash.
The helm is also gettig an overhaul repairing the stress cracks, restoring the gauges, replacing the switches and getting rid of all the extra holes that have been added over the years.
Needless to say ill have to sleep sometime next summer as i work on customers boats all day at work and then for "fun" im working on my commander most nights and weekends
As this is a rather monumental side project
That would seem to make engine/shaft alignment nearly impossible. I wonder what the shop temperatures were when these were being built since most were the 1968's and many, yours and mine were produced in 1967. The tabbing problems would not have been due to new technology, the original 38's were subject to much more tabbing than our 35's and many other smaller models of single mold hulls came before the 35.
All other 35 owners that have documents from the MM, do you show any service after the sale notations? As a percentage of registrations/production we are at least #3 probably #2 so if there was a problem we should have a good idea. Since mine was born with 327F and yours with the 427 this doesn't seem to be a specific problem with engine application, not that that would address the fwd tabbing problems.
Incidentally, are the side emblems on yours the Styled in Fiberglass? Mine does not!
I think the bonding issues on my stringer timbers could likely be that there were a lot of voids with in the adhesive along with the fact that its bond has weakened over the years due to trapped water freezing.
The tabbing issues are in my opinion 100% due to quality control issues at the factory.
Maybe a few "new guys" were assigned to install the interior on my boat and forgot that in order to get a solid secondary bond one must grind both surfaces first .
Yes mine does have the styled in fiberglass badges.
Just like most commanders the holes that drain water from the gutters around the cockpit hatches were originally drilled right thru the wooden framework.
To deal with this problem on both sides of my engine hatches I first cut out all of the bad wood
Then as I mentioned earlier in this thread I replaced both of the full beam cockpit floor supports doubling their size for more strength.
Then instead of rebuilding the wooden framework, I had some heavy duty 1/2" thick Aluminum brackets fabricated to replace the missing structure.
This now allows the hatch gutters to drain freely without contacting any of the wooden cockpit sole structure.
This time last year I was in the process of installing new custom hatches on the side walls of my cockpit liner to allow me to put my whole body thru the wall to access the outboard sides of the engines.
Well after falling in the bilge while taking a photo of the stbd. one, I never finished fitting the port side hatch.
So I finally now have both hatches fit.
Heres the port side hatch.
It will be powder coated to match the boat soon.
After talking with Greg Gajack about the performance of his 35 which he's very happy with, I chose to start with the same diamater and pitch (22"×24" 4 blade ) props but instead of the bronze Michigan wheel Hy-Torqe DQX's he has, I went with Nibral four blade Veem conquest which was designed to be a direct competition to the Well known DQX. Veem claims that their props are CNCd (like the DQX) but are built to a higher tolerance (class 2)
They should be very similar to the performance of Greg's DQX's .
My Hope's are that with these props along with the new engines and all the fairing & super slick paint on the bottom, I have made my boat as efficient as this model with gas engines could possibly be.
Waiting for the first "official" 40 mph 35 Commander!
Captain Jeremy ....... I will be dockside with you when you launch the fastest 35 on Lake Erie next year ! I see a 45 mph Commander in 2020 !!!
My 40 mph 23 Lancer inboard will be much slower than the beast you are building .
A fast boat is certainly cool (a long as your not watching a flow meter) but I'd really be intrested in what my boat will burn at cruise after all the restoration.
Seems to me Greg G mentioned a burn of around 1.1 mpg at 30mph.
I think you're probably about right on the mpg's.
I'm just curious if all the extra fairing , teflon bottom paint over primer sanded up to 320 grit will produce any noticable increase in efficiency.
I also have the same lenco 36"×16 trim tabs as Greg's boat
Timothy "Tim" Miller said:
Seems to me Greg G mentioned a burn of around 1.1 mpg at 30mph.
I've put a lot of time into insulating .
Ive already applied a 1.5" layer to the entire underside of the cockpit sole but the back side of the cockpit liner (the side walls around the cockpit)
This area was made of a very thin layup of glass and when you knock on it it sounded a lot like a base drum filled with loose screws .
To address this I first fit and installed a thin layer of Soundown Eco Damp which is basicly a thin layer of butal that has a strong adhesive on one side and a layer of foil on the outside.
The self stick Eco Damp panels once adhered to the thin fiberglass walls dramatically reduce structural borne vibration noise to the point when I knock on the liner it now sounds as if the liner is a cinderblock wall.
Heres what it looks like
As you can see it conforms nicely to the surface it is installed on.
On top of the Eco Damp I then installed a layer of traditional Soundown insulation which absorbs airborne noise from the engines while the eco damp absorbs structure borne noise.
Next I went on to insulating the main bulkhead.
First I installed an 1/8" layer of Soundown mass loaded vinyl (MLV) onto the original factory 3/4" plywood bulkhead with stainless upholstery staples.
Over top of the MLV I installed a double acoustical panel (25mm) which I had made for me by Tri Cell corp.
A version of it is what Vikking yachts currently uses as heir acoustical sub flooring.
I made templets of each section before cutting and fitting each piece in place on the boat.
Then all the parts got coated with Smith's CPES (clear penatrating epoxy sealer) , then 3 coats of high gloss oil resistant enamel paint before being installed.
Here are the results of that work
Next I started working on restoring my helmstation.
In 50 years it has had all kinds of things installed on it , all leaving their mark
I had intended to restore it but after removing the gray center portion, it was barely holding together so I decided to just make a new one.
Just like the original I made the core out of some scrap marine plywood I had. The original skin which was made from a thin layer of preformed plastic that didn't hold up well as it had several cracks in it not unlike many other commander helms I've seen.
So for the new one I overlaid it with 4 layers of glass which was then faired smooth and coated in gray gel coat to match the original one.
I still need to apply the faux leather texture that the original helm had .
While I was in the thick of all the bottom repairs last year , I glassed in the original holes in the hull where the engine raw water pickups were.
On my boat they were located under each engine which sure made it difficult to access them.
I chose to relocate the new ones just aft of the bulkhead where it is nice and easy to get to them.
I chose to go with Groco parts as they are of excellent are very easy to get a hold of whenever I have had questions about their products in my customers installations.
I went with their 1250 cast bronze sea cocks paired with their bronze thru hulls
I also went with their composit backer blocks that have threaded brass inserts to bolt the base of the seacocks to.
To install them I first drew out in pencil all the different parts to get a visual on where all the hardware would mount in relation to the fasteners
It is important to lay out the new seacocks so that the handles land exactly where you want them before you glue down the backer blocks.
After the new holes were drilled in the hull, I glued down the backers with 5200.
In the above photo you can see little bits of yellow tape. I used the tape to cover the brass inserts during glue up so that the threads dont get all gooped up with adhesive.
Once the 5200 was dry on the backers I then installed the thru hulls into the seacocks with a purpose built installation tool and plenty 5200.
Very nice and I love the documentation you have given us during all the work on your project.
Thanks on Thanksgiving Day,