Today I disconnected sea water pump suction from scoop to make sure there was flow ,there was but 3 large pieces of rubber impeller came out at pump suction,my thinking is piece is stuck in thermostat in open position,but a concern I have is once I connected suction hose and disconnected discharge to circulation pump ,no flow after starting engine,even with a couple of blades gone it should still pump some water,I have found a new impeller and will try to install on Monday,With the 90 degree turns in the canal I live on ,I will have problems getting it to marina for winter storage,I will deal with thermostat next spring ,I just want some water flow to get me out of canal,any info on sea water pump disconnect from engine and impeller replacement would be greatly appreciated 

thank -you 

Norm Morden

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Impeller pieces in pump suction??  The pump must be installed backward, pushing water into the suction side, I don't see how impeller pieces could get there any other way.  And that would explain lack of flow as well.  Any pictures of this pump in place?

It is possible to flush pieces of impeller into the suction side on a raw water cooled engine. Trying to prime the engine recirc pump would have been when this likely happened.

From the sounds of this, I would suspect that the impeller is stripped of the vanes. A thorough disassembly of the thermostat housing and PRV valves is called for. You really need to try to find as many impeller pieces as possible.

If you pull the cover off the sea water pump, I bet that you have little more than the impeller sleeve.

Ok the belt from crank to sea water pump is very tight with no Tension adjustments,is there a technique to pulling sea water pump pulls ?? Anyone?

thank you 

norm morden

The sea water pump belt tension is adjust by adjusting the pump pulley width.

There is a notched lock nut (ring) that is loosened and then the outside pulley sheave is threaded on the hub. Ideally a special spanner wrench is used to rotate the nut, however many people use a soft punch to get the lock nut loose.

If you back off the sheave, the belt will loosen, then you can unbolt everything. This will also get you to the thermostat.

norm morden said:

Ok the belt from crank to sea water pump is very tight with no Tension adjustments,is there a technique to pulling sea water pump pulls ?? Anyone?

thank you 

norm morden

Captain  Norm

When you replace the raw water impellor ( Sherwood # 10615 k ) you MUST also replace the brass cam wear plate ( Sherwood # 10944 ) inside the pump housing .  You are only doing half the correct maintence if you only replace the impellor only and that will affect correct cooling temps and pumping performance . Use only OEM Sherwood replacement parts , there is a difference .

Tim

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Tim any hints on where I can order above Sherwood parts that will deliver to Canada??

 Thanks norm morden

Tim Toth said:

Captain  Norm

When you replace the raw water impellor ( Sherwood # 10615 k ) you MUST also replace the brass cam wear plate ( Sherwood # 10944 ) inside the pump housing .  You are only doing half the correct maintence if you only replace the impellor only and that will affect correct cooling temps and pumping performance . Use only OEM Sherwood replacement parts , there is a difference .

Tim

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Everybody's got what works best for them, but I'm fairly certain that brass and rubber don't wear a the same rate. I replace impellers every two years. I've never had a brass/bronze wear plate so far gone that it was the source of a cooling problem. When I replace the impeller, I look at the wear plate and replace it only if it needs it.

But I did find a whole bunch of impeller rubber bits crammed WAY up inside the gear oil cooler on my Commander a while back. Mind you, this was after I thought I'd previously cleared them all. Turns out, impeller parts are affected by gravity AND flow. If you never push the sticks forward, you can end up with a collection of rubber impeller vanes just sitting on the bottom of the copper pipes that never get motivated to cause problems. But then, if you push the sticks forward and run on plane, the flow from the pump will push those impeller bits along until they run into an immovable opposing force...which in fresh water cooled boats is the marine gear cooler.

I literally cleared that thing of impeller bits three times after running on plane before the bits were finally all removed.

I guess the take-home lesson I learned was that after replacing a rubber impeller on a boat you haven't owned for a looooong time, warm the engine up then pin it to the redline. That'll push latent impeller bits along until they get caught in the gear cooler. Remove them, then repeat that painful process until you no longer find impeller bits in the cooler.

Captain Norm

The brass cam wear plate when new has a nominal thickness of .196 measured at the center radius of the plate . Just looking at an old wear plate inside the pump housing will not give you correct info .  If your impellor has pieces of vanes missing ,your wear plate is also needing replacement .

Do you have any marine service yards in your area that can order the Sherwood parts ?

Tim

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