Thru hulls, sea cocks, and strainers, OH MY!!! (aching wallet!!!)

Kevin M. had already responded to a similar thought - but figured I would break this out as a separate thread, since it is now going to be a full issue on it's own...

Boat:  CC 410 Commander (1980)

The sea cocks are too stiff to attempt to open until the boat is pulled out.

Given that they are 40 years old, I was thinking that I'd sleep a LOT better at night if I went ahead and replaced them.  Then I saw how expensive this would be - just for parts.  OUCH!!!   Looks like the thru-hull in brass from Groco, with the scoop, is about $54 on Amazon.  Bronze seacocks were $234 on Amazon (I haven't started searching all the marine vendors - but the few I peeked at were at least that much, or much more).  And I haven't figured out sea strainers yet...  So - questions continue!

1) Does anyone know what the sizes are for the thru-hulls ?   I'm assuming 1.5" for the engines (or is it 1.25"?)?    Are the thru-hulls for the AC and generator smaller?  It would seem to be nice to have the same thru-hull size for all, but maybe consistency is over-rated in this case?  (??!!)

2) I'm assuming I need the scoop on the thru-hull, especially when the boat is up on plane - for proper water feed of the engines.  Is that correct?    Do I need (or specifically not want) the scoop on the AC and generator thru-hulls?

3) Any hints on a preferred sea strainer?  Are there any good ones that are reasonably priced?

4) Any good hints on sources for all of the above (thru-hulls, sea-cocks, and strainers)?

Four sets of the above (two engines, the generator, and the AC's) will get EXPENSIVE.  Though since we are talking about holes in the bottom of the boat - I don't want to skimp on this one part.  We have zebra muscles to deal with, so I will need to close the thru hulls and clean the strainers regularly.

Thanks!

John

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Sleep well by using only marine bronze from a reputable manufacturer, never brass. Think Groco and Perko.

Tapered shaft seacocks can be restored by polishing taper and shaft together, with valve grinding compound. But if anything has shades of pink, replace!

John,

I would suspect given the year of boat that your seacocks have a tapered cone and can be operated if you will patiently get them moving.  Is there a nut/"T" opposite of the handle?  If so, you can loosen the nut and gently tap shaft toward the handle.  All seacocks should be exercised on a regular basis.

As for the thru hull, you should use "scoop" on engine, genset and air if you want them to work while underway.  Each are sized for amount of water needed for a given appliance, they don't need to be same size. 

As for price, these are what separate your hull from the bottom, no substitute for quality and design here! Groco, Perko, Combraco/Apollo are most common today

On the one that I could see the best, it looked like it had a longer handle rod on one side, and a short t-rod on the other.

If I spray with PB Blaster, with that hurt the rubber inside?

If I put a pair of pliers on the small handle, and gently apply a lot of force till it comes loose, will that work, or will it just shear the handle off and potentially leave me with a big hole in the bottom of the boat?

You said "loosen the nut and gently tap shaft toward the handle" - so if I can put a lot of force on the smaller t-rod and get it to break loose, then I can "tap" the t-rod back toward the body to loosen the main valve?

Sorry for all the questions - but it seems important to get this right!  :)

You can get a combo seacock and strainer by Groco. Here's the 1-1/4" version, best price I could find online currently ($570) :

https://www.anchorexpress.com/GROCO-1-14-Ball-ValveSeacock-and-Raw-Water-Strainer-Combo--BVS-1250_p_80610.html

Add the scoop and you're done.

That looks interesting.  The handle looks solid, and integrated is ok - that's the way the current one is - the handle just seems too wimpy.

Are the sea cocks for a 454    1-1/4"?


The issue is that once the boat is hauled out, they will want to get done with the bottom and get it back in the water as soon as possible - and I won't have a lot of time to research and wait for parts to come in.

People have a tendency to over tighten these old valves.  They should not need a wrench to tighten yet people do it....The handle on these is stubby as you don't need a lot of leverage to open/close once the taper is loose. These are machined bronze fittings.  I bet you can get the "T" to loosen.  see if this helps

https://pbase.com/mainecruising/tapered_cone_seacocks

If you are force to replace, the Groco BVS is a very good choice and doesn't require extra strainer, I have them on my engine and gen...still have original tapered cone Perko and Groco on air and head.  They work great and are exercised at least monthly.along with my newer BVS units

Editor:  new link  to article  https://marinehowto.com/servicing-tapered-cone-seacocks/

Earl the pearl has everything that you need and I saw the seacocks you need-he knows the sizes and everything
But I bet you can get them going with a good wrench and grease you will be able to get them moving again and once you do test them and operate them a few times a year

Who is "Earl the pearl"?

William michels said:

Earl the pearl has everything that you need and I saw the seacocks you need-he knows the sizes and everything
But I bet you can get them going with a good wrench and grease you will be able to get them moving again and once you do test them and operate them a few times a year

You need to be careful using a scoop on a generator. If the generator uses a waterlift muffler system and you do not have the generator running while underway, you will have an excellent chance of flooding the generator with water through the exhaust and hydrolocking it.

Another issue with the scoop intakes are if you have zebra mussels in your local waters. If you do, you will spend considerable amount of time keeping the scoop clean.

As for the engine sea water intakes, yes the scoops do give a slight positive pressure to the seawater pumps when clean, however when you add in the average operating partially clogged state, the advantage becomes marginal. In a worst case scenario, a plugged scoop cannot be cleaned without servicing from the water. If you are scoopless, an obstruction can be cleared through the sea strainer/ sea cock.

Greg Rentfro said:

John,

I would suspect given the year of boat that your seacocks have a tapered cone and can be operated if you will patiently get them moving.  Is there a nut/"T" opposite of the handle?  If so, you can loosen the nut and gently tap shaft toward the handle.  All seacocks should be exercised on a regular basis.

As for the thru hull, you should use "scoop" on engine, genset and air if you want them to work while underway.  Each are sized for amount of water needed for a given appliance, they don't need to be same size. 

As for price, these are what separate your hull from the bottom, no substitute for quality and design here! Groco, Perko, Combraco/Apollo are most common today

As installed by CC the scoops are more like open shrouds, they have slots and the larger opening is to the rear.  This allows intake when the occasional trash hangs up on the scoop the rear opening is unobstructed.  As mentioned with them forward facing they are trawlers and certainly not friendly with the Mississippi waters and its wandering bottom.

Tim,

My 41 had thru hull strainers that had straight slots, no taper. It s a 1972. I wonder if Chris Craft/ Groco had a design evolution?

Mine were more bother than worth however I see a legitimate need for them if they work well in your application.

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