Thru hulls, sea cocks, and strainers, OH MY!!! (aching wallet!!!)

Kevin M. had already responded to a similar thought - but figured I would break this out as a separate thread, since it is now going to be a full issue on it's own...

Boat:  CC 410 Commander (1980)

The sea cocks are too stiff to attempt to open until the boat is pulled out.

Given that they are 40 years old, I was thinking that I'd sleep a LOT better at night if I went ahead and replaced them.  Then I saw how expensive this would be - just for parts.  OUCH!!!   Looks like the thru-hull in brass from Groco, with the scoop, is about $54 on Amazon.  Bronze seacocks were $234 on Amazon (I haven't started searching all the marine vendors - but the few I peeked at were at least that much, or much more).  And I haven't figured out sea strainers yet...  So - questions continue!

1) Does anyone know what the sizes are for the thru-hulls ?   I'm assuming 1.5" for the engines (or is it 1.25"?)?    Are the thru-hulls for the AC and generator smaller?  It would seem to be nice to have the same thru-hull size for all, but maybe consistency is over-rated in this case?  (??!!)

2) I'm assuming I need the scoop on the thru-hull, especially when the boat is up on plane - for proper water feed of the engines.  Is that correct?    Do I need (or specifically not want) the scoop on the AC and generator thru-hulls?

3) Any hints on a preferred sea strainer?  Are there any good ones that are reasonably priced?

4) Any good hints on sources for all of the above (thru-hulls, sea-cocks, and strainers)?

Four sets of the above (two engines, the generator, and the AC's) will get EXPENSIVE.  Though since we are talking about holes in the bottom of the boat - I don't want to skimp on this one part.  We have zebra muscles to deal with, so I will need to close the thru hulls and clean the strainers regularly.

Thanks!

John

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I was hopeful the head would be plumbed off FRESH water, not sea water.  I would also hope that even if it's going to the head or AC, it would still have a sea strainer in the line (though that could be somewhere else...

This is the 5th thru-hull.  There are four just forward of the engines.  Two are for the engines.  I was assuming the other two were for the AC and the generator.  The plumbing is not operational yet, so I can't test the toilets, and probably wouldn't be able to close the 5th seacock to see what no longer got water...

Head is seawater, no strainer.  Call Fred Catcott he will probably have your answers, if you can't contact him pm me for his number.

Tim

John,

The valves should free up easily.  The main shaft in the Groco valves are tapered.

The main part of the Groco valves are rubber with a small tube insert.  When you close the valve, you are rotating the tube 90 degrees.  The t handle compresses the rubber to seal the shaft.

Spec sheets from Groco for the valves that are on our '67 47' below.

In the "Groco Seacocks PDF" loosen the T-handle #1 and tap on the handle #5, moving it toward #1.  It should free up with a few taps.  You can take the screws out of #6 and open the whole thing up.  There is special grease you can use to lube them going forward.  Groco sells grease fittings to replace the #9 drain plug so that you can lube them over time.

There is no magic here.  The rubber insert #4 makes the seal when it is compressed by the t handle.  It will not turn while it is compressed.  It may have deformed while compressed for a long time.

Do not damage #4.  Groco no longer makes them.  You will have to find an old valve to scavange the part.

GROCO_Seacocks.pdf

SVS-2.pdf

Groco's factory is on Kent Island in the Chesapeake Bay.  I called them for parts and they let me on the factory floor.  They even let me use their media blaster to clean up my strainers.  Mine look like they are brand new.

-Darin

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