Hap, Sounds good. You can give me a call or text me - 630.277.3552 and we can work out the details.

Hi Hap. I believe it’s fiberglass with mahogany spreaders. Here are some pictures for you…

I have a whole mast and base... I'm not really wanting to part it out, but it's in good shape and the metal is in a condition that should allow it to be chromed without worry. Here's a link to the listing I have on FB... https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/815341190529655/More than happy to talk to you about it. Chris

Hey there Whitney... As you know sometimes we have to deal with some gremlins. After sitting for a number of years, the person that ended up buying my parent's boat (Seaquel) has run into his fair share of issues that I wouldn't have expected. Sort of like you, more frustration than enjoyment, but he's also been making progress... Keep a stiff upper lip. Like you said, you've gotten a lot of other projects done, and once you get the engine back and ready to go, there will be more smiles than frustration. Crossing my fingers for you and a much better 2025 boating season! C.

Great job Mr. Shriber! Great pics and explanation!

Back when I had my 35, I purchased two new ones from Jim & Bob (LPX, now ChrisParts.com) at a rendezvous. I replaced the "faded" ones on my 35, but held onto them because I actually think the originals were more "crisp" in the lettering.

Whitney, our 1967 42 had badges like the one you show. I liked the "Styled" badge better, so I swapped out this year. Of course, I will keep the originals just in case... but... at least in 1967, first run of the 42's... we had that type.

Just an update to this... My issue was with the hose... I had a Camco drinking water hose and apparently, the stamped connector doesn't like to be twisted. I replaced the hose, and have no leaks now. I did check my gooseneck Lee... all good! Also replaced the rubber washer for good measure. Thankfully it was just a $30 hose. lol C.

Hi Jackie... I have a 42 as well... I'll echo the comments of Mr. Schriber... I went with carpet tiles for most of the interior, and chose not to put anything on the aft deck helm area. $12k sounds like a LOT of money, but it's been a while since I did carpet the needed to be bound on the edges - my last with that was the aft deck of my 35, and I think that cost me around $600 for just the binding.. Admittedly, this was a good 25 years ago, and certainly not as complex as what you'd have for the 42. For our 1967 42, I put in teak and holly flooring in the v-berth, forward head, galley, and aft head. For the salon and aft cabin, we did carpet tiles. The carpet tiles are really good one's by Shaw - they are 18" square. My reasoning for going this route... easy to remove, and more importantly, I didn't want to see the binding for the engine hatches. Granted the carpet tiles aren't as soft on the feet, but they are super easy to remove (for cleaning or engine access) and put back in place. I think it took me all of a day to get the galley and the aft cabin put in place (whole tiles in the center, with partials around the edge). I think our cost (this was about 12 years ago) was about $1,200 - and that was for Shaw carpet tiles (a good manufacturer). Not sure what you are looking to put on the back deck, but do think $12k is high, even though it's a tighter area, and requires a lot when patterning, cutting, and binding to be sure it looks nice when done. Here are a couple of pictures of our final results... ABOVE: The day we installed the teak and holly (plywood) for the v-berth, forward head, and galley - no toilet or fridge installed yet... ABOVE: Aft cabin and aft head flooring just after the install in 2012. It all looks just as good today... we are very happy with how the carpet tiles have held up. ABOVE: Salon flooring just after the install in 2012. Super happy with not having carpet binding lines... C. 1967 42' Commander - "What If..."

Congratulations Brian! Great looking boat! I had a 35... loved, it (and sort of miss it). It was the designer Dick Avery's favorite. Chris 1967 42' "What If..."

Hello... Char, thank you for the link... this something about what I was thinking, but when I look at other boats, there is cover that goes over the motor end to make it look a little cleaner. that's what I'm having trouble finding. Warren... that's pretty cool... can you give me the measurements of it? Also, is it designed to open two windows? I only have one window i need to open... so maybe overkill for my application? Thanks!

I'm not one knowledgeable about the tanks - other than they are old, and you may consider replacing at some point - but there are many of us out there with original tanks (water and fuel). Unless you take a borescope with you, that'd be hard to guess on. As for the plumbing... unless things have been changed (or sort of repaired over the years), all of the water lines will be copper, and should be ok. Find out a bit more about the heads... how old, etc. while you're checking it out. if you can get some pictures and come back to the group with them, some of us might be able to weigh in a bit more. C. 1967 42 Commander "What If..."

Ok... I'm back with a post on this, and I'm happy to report... SUCCESS! So, a recap for those of you following or perhaps someone in the future looking at this for the first time. First some baseline info: Normally, my engines (both) sit for a week while we are gone. Upon starting, my procedure is 8 pumps of the throttle, key the ignition for about 5 seconds, then key off, pump the throttle 4 more times, throttle a about half, and turn the key again until they roar to life (usually around 2-4 seconds). For some more background, both engines rebuilt (one less than 100 hrs ago, and one less than about 50 hrs ago). My carburetor on the starboard side is an Edelbrock with electric chock (port will be changed out soon). Batteries on both sides have been replaced within the last year and a half. No other material changes to the engines or connected items for a number of years. Last season about midway through, things changed on my starboard engine: SYMPTOMS: * From a cold start - harder to start. Instead of 8 pumps, 4 pumps... it was 8 pumps, 4 pumps, maybe a few more... then start. * Once started and running at about 1000 rpm for a few minutes as we prepped to leave, I'd knock it down to idle. No issues, but as time passed at idle it seemed to labor/hesitate a bit. * After running for a bit (10-15 mins), putting it in gear or applying throttle would kill the engine. * When the engine was warm, starting the engine was next to impossible. While cranking, the engine labored/hesitated as in the video above. INITIAL THOUGHTS/DIAGNOSIS: * Seemed like an electrical issue - changed batteries, checked grounds, tested the alternator output... all checked out. * Was told by a fellow dock mate that maybe it was a sensor that was bad... LOL... No sir... not in 1967, LOL. * Timing... checked the timing. It was set to 10 degrees (I was educated that it should be 8 degrees, so a small change), but 2 degrees wouldn't be a big issue. * Moving on to more fun items... checked the flyweight movement on the distributor... they moved out, and back in as expected, no broken springs. * Also swapped out my Mallory electronic ignition modules from port to starboard... issue did not follow, so the electronic ignition was good. * There was also some input to check the gear on the bottom of the distributor, and that there could also be a secondary issue of a failing starter (labored starting). ACTUAL PROBLEM & SOLUTION: * After all of the diagnosis from above, there was now thought that the carburetor was the culprit, and something called "dripping secondaries" (For more info you can look for an artcile by Dick Morland in our archives - just search "dripping secondaries". I'll do my best to explain... Essentially, due to the angle of the engine, and some issues within the carburetor itself, the fuel leaks down to the last two cylinders of the engine as it's running. The engine can't burn it all, and over a period of time at a lower rpm, it sort of hydro locks those two cylinders, and they choak out. Trying to restart when warm, now causes the labored/hesitating start, but if the engine sits for the week (or overnight), the fuel evaporates to a degree (more the longer it sits), and thus the engine is able to start again. * As I have the second carb awaiting installation on the port engine, It was a simple procedure to swap carbs - two wires,4 nuts, and the fuel line... about 15 minutes of my time. The first thing I noticed was that my gasket between the plate and the carb was "blown out" between 2 of the 4 barrels. Not sure how, or when this happened, but ok..I put a new gasket, and the second carb on... 8 pumps, 4 pumps, boom... off and running. * I let the engine run for about 10-15 minutes... no change in performance (albeit a bit rich on the fuel - an adjustment I'll need to make. Keyed off the engine, then turned the key - no throttle...fired right off. Already an improvement without actually taking the boat out. * We took the boat out twice after that... once for about a 15 - 20 minute shakedown, and another for about an hour and fifteen mintues. Both cruises were uneventful... the boat ran good, and no issues with lower RPM (do need to make some adjustments on the carb as mentioned above), and after getting into the slip, I keyed off the starboard, and fired it right back up... no issues. * Now that I know, the carb will need to be tended to. Not something I'm sure I want to tackle myself, but it'll be the next step. The carbs came used to me from a fellow club member, but this one was fine for a small amount of hours over perhaps 5 or six years (remember that I am in the process of rehabbing our 42, so going out on the boat has been on the backburner), So once the offending carb is refurbed, I'll swap it out and have the other one gone through as well (or both over the winter). Come spring, we should be good to go on both carbs. SPECIAL THANKS: Without naming names, I'd like to thank a number of people that provided input, and direction in getting the diagnosis of this crazy problem. You don't know what you don't know, and I'm not an engine guy - but I'm learning. I appreciate the members of the this club, and others around me in our boating community in providing valuable information... as some of you know, finding people that know the "old stuff" is becoming more challenging. Thanks to all for the help, and hopefully this post (and Mr. Morland's article) will be helpful to others in the future. Cheers! C. 1967 42 Commander "What If..."

Hi there Tim… swapped coil with another that I had… no change.

Ok… back on this subject after a while (if someone tells you that you should try pneumonia out for a spin… take a hard pass). Ok… let’s add a little more info to the original article that Char was kind enough to add, and to this post. * starting cold, engine turns over fine, and while not as easy to start as my port engine… it does… no hesitation just turns over and will start. * Pulled off the cap, rotor, and plate and checked the flyweights… turning the rotor I can see the flyweights both move out, and repressing the rotor they both return as expected. * Changed my Mallory Unilite ignitions from one engine to the other.. issue persists with the starboard engine. Diagnosis would tell me the electronic ignition is fine. * Starting the engine and letting it run for about 10 or 15 mins… during that time I let it idle, then recede to 1500rpm. Reduced to idle, put it in gear, reved to 1000rpm. No issues. I did not go longer but in other instances the longer it runs in idle or near idle the more likely it is to die when I put it in gear or apply throttle. * After the 10-15 mins of the above, I turned off the engine, tried to restart and was not able to get it to fire. While trying to start the warm engine it’s labored. (Adding a video)… this is not the case cold as mentioned above. IMG_3771.mov Ok… so, the diagnosis continues… any ideas with the added info? C. 1967 42 Commander “What If…”

Oh... one more thing... is removing the ignition module just removing the two screws and disconnecting the wiring? Disconnect 12v before doing?

Better yet... here is a list of all the fasteners needed for my project (with links on where to order online if you can't find what you need at your local hardware store. You'll see bow rail items in there (items T and U in the list)... looks like if it's not 1/4 20, then it'd be 10-24. C.

Hi John... can you take a pic of it? I think you have the wrong size, but if it's anything like my 1967 42, I have a whole list of the fasteners needed - I replaced all of mine two years ago when I replaced by toe rail and had everything rechromed. I just want to be sure the hardware is the same... C.

Hi Jason, Lee... First, thanks for the comments (and the help). After reading here, talking the mechanic at our marina, and a call with Lee... it seems something in my distributor is the culprit. I am going out to the boat on Thursday night and Friday will be dedicated to the engine. I have a timing gun out there, and between that and some inspection, I'll be able to get to the bottom of my issue, and back out on the water. I'll keep everyone updated here because hopefully it'll help someone in the future, it's what this club is all about. Stay tuned! C.