John, Are you sure? I don't ever remember taking a man off to change a starter on a Q, but I could be wrong. I think I used extra long 3/8 extensions and a swivel socket. But again, I could be wrong. That being said: There are two drain plugs under the riser area. One directly under the riser drains raw water. The other is on the Man side of riser and will drain sufficient coolant to remove the Man. Expect about a gallon or less. Hope this helps you.

Contact Kocian Instruments in the vendor area. They will have them. You will need to know the temp range of the gauge (IE: 100-250 etc)

That makes more sense! Do a valvejob while the heads are off. I would say improper torque OR the heads werent surfaced. Thats the two biggest reasons.

@Jon Welge You need a valve job on an engine with 100 hrs?? I'd be getting a second opinion. Seriously... Sounds more like a valve adjustment to me.

Yep!!

As Tim stated and I reinforce. Remember when using the dial on the light that the mark is NOT TDC but rather 10 degrees BTDC. You will have to do math when timing the engine.

I think I have one in the shop. Let me look later today. Send a phone number or Text to my cell: 704-287-3914 If I have it? It's yours. Lee

160 Closed cooling 140/143 Open.

Most Marine HVAC units (Self contained) are just that. They are AC With reverse cycle heat. I assume this is what you are asking. We install a lot of them and they work well. We Install Dometic ONLY... There are a ton of other brands but their Customer service and warranty is lacking. Hope this helps. Lee

@tim toth are you saying you HAVE to replace the cam every time you change an impeller? That's a bit excessive in my book but a good inspection is warranted.

Just replaced one in a 30 TSF last week. Got the replacement from Mrcool.us exact replacement 1/2 the price. Also this one we did fell apart and all the fluid went out of the exhaust. Just for diag. Did you see any sheen? When you put the new one in you may still see a sheen for a bit as the lost fluid gets out of the muffler. Hope this helps

Update As we all know if Earl the Pearl doesn't have it? You don't need it. Got a call from Annette this week (Thanks to Scott Anderson for the help) and lo and behold I have one on the way!! Reasonable price and in like new (If Not NOS) condition!

Update Since the part never arrived. I'll update: The company in question was on FB as "Oceanic Boats and Parts For Sale" Steer clear of them. Also if you get an individual that replies "I have one DM me" It's a flag. Not always but most times. The best method is a Picture of the part with a hand written note next to it. Sometimes it works.

well.... They are great engines while new. But I will say from experience, Hard parts are getting extinct. I'm still trying to locate a fuel rail for one that rusted inside.... Engines are no longer made by GM either. (The GM Bailout killed it) So it was a short lived production unlike the 454 era.

The one I am working on is rusting from the inside out from high water concentration in the fuel system for a couple years (now fixed) But the rust is clogging the injectors and I dont want my client to risk using this one anymore as it may rupture.

@Thomas Nicholas Unfortunately yes. The one I am currently trying to locate is for a Crusader 8.1 Captains Choice. The crusader will also use the Volvo Penta and Mercruiser Part number if it's a Non return system (Meaning it only has one fuel line to the rail) . Sad news is this rail was discontinued by everyone because GM (or their vendor) also discontinued them as well. I have called every avenue in the country (and out) and have only found one company in the states that has one but they want 5500.00 for it. (two years ago I paid 621.00 for a new one) I'm just not gonna take that beating. There is a company in Australia that has re engineered the rails and has upgraded aftermarket kits available for around 2900.00 plus shipping I'm sure.. efihardware.com

Last time I did one of these the procedure as I remember was fill the reservoir, pump up the air to 45 and begin turning the wheel. FIFTY TURNS one way then 50 back the other way, repeat. The wheel will get stiff and the you know its coming in. Also of you have a dual station, do the lower first as the lower also pumps to the upper. I think at one point I did just crack a line at the lower to see air air would purge, but these systems are pretty much self bleeding. If you come back a da or so lter and the pressure drops overnight. You still have a leak. It took me days but with a spray bottle of soap i found out the little gaskets behind the level sight windows on the reservoir had aged out. Still available, replaced and Never had another issue. Hope this will help you!

James that is true! They will not help you get it back. But as far as access goes to your account info it IS one of the safest. Thats what I said in my post.

That's an awesome report Chris! Glad to hear it all worked out for the best!! Great post and explanation. Dick Morland still very much lives in this club albeit in the archives. But THAT was and is the whole purpose of archives!! The best days are ahead now! Enjoy!!

I think we used the same ones but they had to be re gapped. (Not positive) The documentation will tell you. These are basically Marine Delco HEI with the coil on top of the cap. You will do away with your current coil and change the Ignition and Tach wiring to fit. (Connectors are included)